Some restaurants exist to satiate their customers' appetites; others, however, exist to shatter any fallacious stereotype. The latter could be said to best describe MAYA at Sailendra, which is nestled on the ground floor of JW Marriott Hotel Jakarta in the Mega Kuningan district of South Jakarta. Since day one, MAYA at Sailendra has distinguished itself among other globally-flavored eateries in the city thanks to its singular dedication to Northern Indian cuisine. Having said that, at MAYA at Sailendra, do not expect the chef to rustle up only a plate of vegetarian curry and naan flatbread.

As the hotel's executive chef Abhishek Basu touched on during a conversation with the Post on March 16, there is more to Indian cuisine than what meets the foreigners' eye. At MAYA at Sailendra, for instance, the menu caters to all kinds of gourmands, from the vegetarians to the meat lovers to those with a sweet tooth to the unassuming tastemakers, while nonetheless staying true to the humble tradition from which the recipes find their origin.

"In due course of time, I think it's about educating people," said Abhishek, "by treating them with the right kind of food."

And, of course, nothing could better bridge different cultures and perspectives than a mouthwatering feast. As Abhishek sagely remarked later "I think food is something that unites people." 

The 'interest' in flavors

MAYA at Sailendra officially opened to its customers on Nov. 24, 2022, which served as an extension to the hotel's existing Sailendra restaurant. According to Abhishek, the reason behind the conception of a fine-dining establishment focusing on North Indian cuisine was how there had been "a lot of movements" by foreign travelers and expatriates leading up to the current, post-pandemic era.

"Since we [JW Marriott Hotel Jakarta] already have a Japanese restaurant and a Chinese restaurant and, also, fantastic Indonesian food at the Sailendra, it was important that we looked at various facets of cuisines being offered at the hotel," continued Abhishek.

Culinary variety might be Abhishek and his team's top priority during the early conception of MAYA at Sailendra, but the former had also observed how there had been a "huge interest" among the Jakarta natives and urbanites toward the general Indian cuisine itself. 

"I think people in Indonesia are really well-traveled, especially people from Jakarta. They travel a lot due to business or due to pleasure, so they have a great understanding of food," Abhishek remarked. "Overall, people in Jakarta have a very evolved palate, so they have a better understanding of various cuisines."

It was also helpful, Abhishek underscored, how specifically Northern Indian cuisine and Indonesian cuisine share a few similarities.

"We kind of end up using the same [ingredients]. Yes, there is a little difference in the spices. But overall, if you see the main, common link between both cuisines, it's that both are extremely flavorful," he explained.

Notwithstanding MAYA at Sailendra's opulent location which is the five-starred JW Marriott Hotel Jakarta, the interior of the restaurant was deliberately conceived akin to a communal cafeteria. Lady Putri, the hotel's complex public relations manager, explained how, aesthetic-wise, they aimed to have the restaurant exude everything but the stereotypical. "We try to establish a contemporary style and not too much of an Indian touch, as you can see," she quipped.

A plate of curiosity: The restaurant's appetizers consist of Organic Quinoa Chaat and Watermelon & Avo Chaat. (JP/Felix Martua) (JP/Felix Martua)

Abhishek, chiming in, elaborated how the interior design was also inspired by the classic motto of "less is more."

"The idea has always been to let the food and the people do the talking, instead of having a grandiose setup," he added, underlining how the most "important" aspect of establishing an Indian restaurant, above all else, should be "the right cuisine and the right, authentic flavors."

Northern delights

Unlike most Indian restaurants in the city, MAYA at Sailendra centers its dishes specifically on the Indian cuisine that originated and was made famous in the northern part of the country, which encompasses states and union territories such as Delhi, Haryana and Punjab. Contrary to what non-Indians might assume, explained Abhishek, different parts of India possess their respective, distinctive culinary style.

Moreover, to plate up the most possibly authentic Northern Indian dishes, thorough research was conducted first and foremost, especially during the formulation of the menu and its corresponding recipes.

"These are all traditional recipes. Very classic recipes that are presented in a very contemporary style," Abhishek enthused. "It [dates back] to almost two decades of cooking by the [culinary] masters and different kinds of chefs and grandmothers and everybody. We all have learned from them. There was a lot of research about the ingredients and different flavors that would go with the local population over here. That was very important for us."

MAYA at Sailendra is determined in rustling up a Northern Indian menu that would pique curiosity among its diners while simultaneously radiating homely familiarity to the Indian expatriates in the city. For the appetizers and small plates, the restaurant's Organic Quinoa Chaat blends the triple flavors of sweetness, spiciness and sourness. Meanwhile, the restaurant's Watermelon and Avo Chaat utilizes watermelon and Hass avocado made famous on the by-lanes of old Delhi. 

Concerning the latter dish, the hotel's Indian specialty chef Bhagwat Singh highlighted how the street-style dish "is reflective of the culinary delicacies of the Medieval era of India. People swarm the streets to enjoy a slice of Indian history."

The restaurant's Bharwan Paneer Tikka proves to be popular among its diners, another small plate that comprises homemade cottage cheese, aniseed, cashew nuts and red chilies whose recipe found its origin in the state of Punjab. Not all appetizers are strictly fruits and dairy, though. For instance, the Ajwaini prawns are freshly caught, cooked-in-a-tandoor shrimps boosted by the flavors of carom seeds. "It is [also] good for a healthy gut," added Bhagwat.

For the entrée, the restaurant's endearingly-named Quintessential Butter Chicken makes the case for being MAYA at Sailendra's signature dish. A grilled chicken complemented with spiced tomato and butter gravy, this main course is rooted in the union territory of Delhi and "owes a large part of its flavor heritage to the Mughals," noted Bhagwat, the latter referring to an empire that once ruled over South Asia between the 16th and 19th centuries.

Of the available desserts, the restaurant's Gulab jamun cheesecake is a must-try; a sweet course that is adorned with caramel sauce and edible flowers. For the sweet tooth who might prefer something more familiar and low-key, the restaurant's so-called 64 percent Cocoa Pastry might do the trick, another closing treat that oozes a palate-cleansing rally courtesy of its combination of almond, sea salt and chocolate soil. 

If the diners are in the mood for a classic kebab, MAYA at Sailendra's Lucknowi-style skewered goat mince kebab could be considered for an afternoon snack. "It is seasoned generously to keep it soft and succulent," enthused Bhagwat.

For more details about MAYA at Sailendra, check out its Instagram @maya_sailendra. To make a reservation, find MAYA at Sailendra at Chope.co