Joannes Tandjung’s sense of fashion began in the home. The Foreign Ministry civil servant would admire his parents as they prepared for a wedding in traditional attire. He notes they were aficionados of batik and other traditional textiles.

“They always taught me that as Indonesians we have to be proud of our own culture and heritage,” he said from Australia, where he is pursuing his doctorate on “Formulation of Trade-Oriented Position of Protection on Traditional Cultural Expression: A Case Study of Indonesian Batik Enters the ASEAN Economic Community”.

“I was only a child back then who would never dream of becoming a diplomat, but looking back I think my parents have truly equipped me with a strong belief to protect and promote Indonesian culture.”

For his high school graduation, he saved up for a batik shirt by noted designer Obin.

His research at the University of Sydney’s Law School shows that batik has been used to enhance relations between Indonesia and other nations, from the time of founding president Sukarno, who had the first national batik made, Soeharto’s preference for wearing batik shirts and presenting the cloth as gifts, to current President Joko “Jokowi” Widodo, who has his new Cabinet members wear batik shirts.

He also has witnessed the importance of specifying the origins and ownership of traditional cultural expressions, following disputes with Malaysia over dances, musical instruments and also batik.

Make way for fashion diplomacy, which Joannes is also promoting with the organizing of Indonesian fashion shows around the world.

“My personal view on fashion diplomacy includes not only the active role of diplomats and ambassadors as the avant garde of diplomacy but also the essential role of each member of the Indonesian community. Due to the nature of fashion which is more connected to culture and economic [aspects], I am of the view that each Indonesian can play an important role in promoting Indonesian designed and made fashion, including batik, in our daily lives.”

There have been three fashion shows arranged with Joannes’ help: one in Geneva in 2010 and in Wellington and Sydney, both in March 2016, with the latter also including two Australian designers. He provides the input on designers and the textiles they use for the heads of mission to choose for the shows.

“There are a number of issues to be considered when designers are chosen, including the products and creations and the foreign market. In New Zealand, for instance, seven Indonesian designers were chosen to represent various textiles from Sabang to Merauke [… ] and the Indonesian Embassy worked closely with the designers to determine the New Zealand collection — choice of design and color, weather related issues, fashion taste of New Zealanders,” he said.

“In Sydney, where fashion is more thriving, more colorful designs are welcomed warmly by Sydney-siders.”

His ultimate goal for his fashion diplomacy?

While he is heartened by the fact that batik has been embraced by the younger generation, he also wants his compatriots to learn more about the meaning of traditional fabrics. He hopes one day that Indonesian fashion shows will be held in the fashion capitals of the world, but says it will take everybody — designers, SMEs, fashion editors, the public — to help achieve the goal.

“Tell me if Indonesia does not have a history of fashion as long as the Chinese, Japanese, Indian and other Asian nations. In fact, Indonesia is endowed with an even larger amount of traditional textiles from Sabang to Merauke and a flourishing fashion industry,” he said.

“You may call me optimistic, but that is just the way that I was raised by my parents. Good works always result in good results, too. This is why I have the strong belief that if related stakeholders in the fashion industry work together, then there is no boundary to what Indonesia can achieve.”

He wonders if one day the Duchess of Cambridge might wear a batik-patterned wool coat and dress to an Indonesian-themed gala, or Leonardo Di Caprio would be spotted wearing a batik cashmere scarf from Joannes’ own longtime favorite Obin.

“Now that’s what I would call triumphant Indonesian fashion diplomacy!” Joannes said.

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