After a successful run in Singapore and Doha, famed smokehouse Meatsmith opens in South Jakarta.

Amid the trees and buildings of the Gunawarman area, heat billows up now and again from barbecue grills. Meat is smoked for hours in the many steakhouses in the area, and a new one has just arrived to set the local barbeque scene on fire.

First established in Singapore by Burnt Ends Hospitality Group, Meatsmith officially opened in Jakarta on Jan. 14 as the restaurant chain's second international venture after Doha. The modern barbecue house occupies 600 square meters of space in a corner of South Jakarta.

“Of course, it’s really important to stick out from others,” said chef and owner Dave Pynt regarding other big steakhouses in the vicinity.

“But the most important thing is to deliver great hospitality with great produce, great cooking and great service."

Takeaways: Meatsmith Jakarta's variations of grab-and-go menu from its second branch Meatsmith Xpress. (Courtesy of Meatsmith Jakarta) (Personal Collection/Courtesy of Meatsmith Jakarta)

During a media gathering on Jan. 25, the Meatsmith team said the restaurant in Singapore was designed to be more casual, while the one in Jakarta was “more refined”. And it is apparent at first glance: luxury hotel-like dim lighting welcomes visitors from a staircase leading to the upper floor where the bar and the main dining rooms are. Even a classy, glass-door wine sellar is visible for view, boasting its abundant and artisanal selection.

High-end food and beverage pairing

Meatsmith’s dining room might not seem like a smoky, meat-grilling place due to its Michelin-star-like setting, but the authentic barbeque culture appears in every corner, from the dry meat at the entrance to the wooden tables outdoors.

Elegant smokehouse: An interior look of Meatsmith Jakarta's upper floor. (Courtesy of Meatsmith Jakarta) (Personal Collection/Courtesy of Meatsmith Jakarta)

The small-sized menu shows Meatmith’s quality over quantity preference (not more than five dishes for every meal). Among its starters, it serves smoked, scotch quail eggs with tasty caviar, sweet and savory beef brisket spring rolls and pastrami burnt ends. Added with barbecue aioli sauce, they are a fresh combination of appetizers.

The restaurant does not play around with its “smokehouse” claim — the usual Caesar salad comes with smoked egg, the salmon tataki taco has smoked pineapple and most surprisingly, its charred, spicy broccoli and honey cornbread are accompanied with smoked butter. Admittedly, it enhances both the garlicky and sweet dishes with its strong savory taste.

The main dish is where Meatsmith flaunts its prowess in authentic Americana barbecue: jerk chicken chop replenish the taste buds with its mango salsa, the marbled 300-gram ribeye (a 150-day grain-fed Australian Black Angus) tastes as grand as it looks and the 12-hour-smoked beef short ribs does wonders with its sweet corn cheddar purée. The latter is an exclusive dish, only available at Jakarta’s Meatsmith.

Artisanal: The bar at Meatsmith Jakarta boasts selections of curated international drinks. (Courtesy of Meatsmith Jakarta) (Personal Collection/Courtesy of Meatsmith Jakarta)

But it was the salmon steak, with its smoked roasted tomato, olives and fried kale on a big plate, that really shows Meatsmith’s virtuoso outside the meat.

It might be nefarious to not mention its drinks – alcoholic and non-alcoholic ones – that really correspond with the dishes. The hibiscus lemon with its tint of sweetness goes well with the marbled meat and chicken slices. Meanwhile, the sloe gin negroni (a twist from the usual strong negroni) awakens the tongue for more brisket and salmon on the table.

From its curated wine selection to the whiskies and bourbons, Meatsmith’s beverages seem to make for an exquisite culinary and sensory experience.

“Having good drinks is super important and making sure they fit in with who we are and what we cook is really important,” Pynt said, noting that Meatsmith focused heavily on beverages in all of its venues.

Fresh and smoky: Meatsmith Jakarta's salmon tataki taco that is served as an appetizer. (Courtesy of Meatsmith Jakarta) (Personal Collection/Courtesy of Meatsmith Jakarta)

Express feature

As it turns out, dine-in is not Meatmith’s only ammunition. Visitors will find a grab-and-go service right at the entrance. The restaurant’s second brand, Meatsmith Xpress, serves burgers, sandwiches and other smoked favorites to take home.

I had the pleasure of enjoying the double beef brisket patties (each patty almost an inch thick) with melted American sliced cheddar cheese, big house pickles and its own burger sauce — not to mention the thick and juicy (apparently the restaurant’s main delight) crinkle-cut fries that come with it.

Slow cooked: Meatsmith Jakarta's marbled beef is smoked for up to 14 hours. (Courtesy of Meatsmith Jakarta) (Personal Collection/Courtesy of Meatsmith Jakarta)

And if any visitors are woeful of going back home from the bar upstairs, Meatsmith Xpress can also pack a small glass bottle of its gin negroni to be consumed at home.

For a new smokehouse in town, opening a self-pickup service right away seems to be a daring move. But Pynt said he had confidence in Indonesia’s meat-eaters.

“We have done a few events in Jakarta that have had a good reception and have developed a great relationship with our partners there over the last three to four years,” he said.

Asked about his reason for choosing Jakarta right after Doha, he highlighted the city’s great food and eating culture.

“It’s a city where we can be inspired and have a lot of fun with great people, and this is what we are looking for!”

Meatsmith Jakarta opens seven days a week for dinner from 5 p.m. onward.