The country’s fashion designers talk what’s trending for the New Year.

Many of us were anticipating the New Year with a bit of apprehension. Geopolitical issues show little sign of resolution, bringing far-reaching economic and social consequences.

But on the catwalk, there is an entirely different outlook, with fashion designers bringing in bold silhouettes and vibrant hues that seem to scream, “Bring it on!”

“Fashion wants to spread hope,” Jenny Yohana Kansil, founder and principal of Indonesia's branch of Istituto di Moda Burgo fashion school, told The Jakarta Post during the Spotlight fashion event in Pos Bloc, Central Jakarta, on Dec. 3.

“There have been a lot of rumors of recession,” she continued. “But let’s not be afraid or pessimistic. We’ve survived the pandemic. And I’m sure that we’ll also be just fine.”

So, what will be trending in Indonesia’s fashion scenes?

Athleisure

At Spotlight, Jenny presented a collection themed “La Speranza” (Italian for “hope”), which depicted her optimism for 2023. The collection featured Lubuklinggau Durian batik in rainbow colors, combined with organza, taffeta and wool.

Among the items presented were asymmetrical skirts, bomber jackets and peplum dresses that exuded relaxed comfort.

“I was inspired by the ‘70s, which is also known as the era of freedom,” Jenny said.

She believes that sporty items with easygoing silhouettes will be trendy this year.

“Athleisure, which is a combination of sporty and daily wear, will be the fad,” Jenny said.

Indonesian Fashion Chamber (IFC) national chair Ali Charisma agreed.

“Sporty items will definitely be trending,” Ali predicted. “Many people have been exercising and taking good care of their body during the pandemic, and now they want to show off the results.”

Crop tops, which have been the favorite of many young people in the country since mid-2022, will stay strong, the industry predicts. This year will also see a lot of cut-out details and semi-transparent panels, which help sports enthusiasts and fashionistas flex their freshly toned muscles.

Skinny pants may be on their way out, according to industry players. In 2023, men and women may prefer baggy, low-rise trousers.

“Hipster or even ‘bumster’ pants will be trending [as well],” Ali claimed.

Flower prints: Two models wear modest outfits by Kami. Floral designs will remain women's favorites in 2023. (JP/Sylviana Hamdani) (JP/Sylviana Hamdani)

Slow and sustainable fashion

As customers become more environmentally conscious, many now prefer to wear items with minimal ecological footprints.

This new tendency had also prompted fashion designers to follow suit and take more responsibility for their impact on the planet.

On Dec. 2, Ali soft-launched his new resort-wear label Jarum Hijau in Pos Bloc, Central Jakarta, at the opening of Spotlight. Among the items that he presented were crop tops, wide-legged pants and kimono-style outerwear, made of 100 percent natural fabrics.

“The collection is also made with a zero-waste concept,” Ali said.  

Ali cut the fabric that he used for the collection into rectangular shapes and then folded and sewed them using intricate origami techniques to eliminate waste.

“This way, I can use one piece of textile for four or five clothing items without leaving any [scraps] behind,” he said.

Ali also adorned his outfits with the unique Japanese sashiko (interlocking stitches).

“My collection is made of simple looks but embellished with many complicated details,” Ali said. “I hope that customers will appreciate the products more and take better care of them so that [the outfits] will last longer.

“It’s the concept of slow fashion,” Ali added.

Jenny employed a similar sustainable-fashion practice for her collection.

“My new collection is made of leftover fabric from our [previous] collection presented at Milan Fashion Week [in September 2022],” she said. “I always treasure leftover fabrics and use them in my next collections.”

Fun prints and bright colors

Digital prints are also here to stay.

“Digital prints will become a permanent trend in the country’s fashion industry,” Ali continued. “[The trend] has kept going strong since it first gained momentum five or seven years ago.”

Ali believed prints would become more complex this year, with designers juxtaposing several complicated patterns in a design.

Amot Syamsuri Muda, for example, showcased stylized prints of his visage amid splashes of pink, orange, green and blue on T-shirts, shorts and denim jackets in his new collection presented at Spotlight on Dec. 4.

“Fashion is going to be crazy fun [in 2023],” said Amot, who was named Designer of the Year at the event.

On the other hand, women still seem to prefer classic floral prints, with a few variations of stars, rainbows and butterflies in between.

At the opening of Tokopedia Fashion Week in Tokopedia Tower, South Jakarta, on Dec. 8, women’s ready-to-wear brands Clouwny, Kami and Nadjani presented their latest collections featuring colorful flower-patterned prints.

“Women generally adore flowers, as they symbolize beauty and femininity,” Istafiana Candarini, cofounder of Kami, said during an interview after the fashion show.

Another trend that will make it big in the country’s fashion atmosphere this year is bright colors.

“The trend [of bright colors] has been felt since the end of [2022],” Istafiana continued. “But neutral and earth tones will remain on the sidelines.”

According to Pantone’s color-of-the--year 2023, magenta will be the trending color. In addition, warm natural tones, such as red, yellow, verdigris and blue will also be favorites.

On the catwalk: A model presents a peplum dress and quilted overcoat by Jenny Yohana Kansil, during the fashion event Spotlight in Pos Bloc, Jakarta, on Dec. 3. (JP/Sylviana Hamdani) (JP/Sylviana Hamdani)

Genderless footwear

Boots will again enter the country’s footwear scene this year.

“Ankle boots are the ideal choice for miniskirts and shorts, which will be in,” Ali Charisma said. 

In addition, we will still be seeing a lot of platform shoes and chunky sandals in various candy colors. At the opening of Tokopedia Fashion Week, Amazara showcased a new collection of platform sandals, themed Looking Forward, made in collaboration with Indonesian-illustrator Dinda Puspitasari.

“Women will be preferring thick heels between 5-10 centimeters [this] year,” Uma Hapsari, founder of Amazara, a footwear brand based in Yogyakarta, said when interviewed after the show. 

Women are not the only ones who may prefer heels this year.

“As fashion is becoming genderless these days, more and more men are donning high heels, especially when attending special events,” Amot said. “But for daily wear, I think we’ll still stick to our go-to sneakers.”

Apparently, comfort will never go out of fashion.