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Jakarta Post

For the sake of sake: a culinary experience

Sake is gaining momentum among younger Japanese cuisine aficionados in Jakarta. The Japanese beverage preserves its traditional quality even when paired with fusion food. The Jakarta Post takes you on a memorable sake journey.

Asmara Wreksono (The Jakarta Post)
Jakarta
Sun, May 29, 2016

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For the sake of sake: a culinary experience Warm Shirakabegura Kimoto Junmai sake from the Kyoto prefecture. (JP/Asmara Wreksono)

Sake is gaining momentum among younger Japanese cuisine aficionados in Jakarta. The Japanese beverage preserves its traditional quality even when paired with fusion food. The Jakarta Post takes you on a memorable sake journey.

The Sake Dinner event at the Sake+ restaurant in the Senopati area of Jakarta on Wednesday saw diners introduced to a new experiment of pairing French cuisine with Japanese food and sake. Although the idea to pair fusion food with something as traditional as sake may sound foreign to many, chefs Hiroyuki Meno and Kawamura Toshinobu managed to bring the vision to life.

The seven-course dinner begins with an amuse bouche plate consisting of Shirauo karaage, Tarabagani kani-shu and edamame. The palate prep is paired with Umenoyado Bizen Omachi Junmai Daiginjo sake originating from the Nara prefecture.

Bizen Omachi sake is made from rice grains polished down to 40% and brewed in small batches. It contains subtle acidity, a silky texture and fragrances of apple and melon, which surprisingly go well with the mild Tarabagani Kani-shu.

In the second course, the Gekkeikan Horin Junmai Daiginjo sake from the Kyoto prefecture comes to play, paired with Suzuki and Otoro sashimi with Sumiso and Shoyu mustard sauce. The somewhat milder kick from the sake complements the rather strong sensation of the mustard sauce.

The French influence of the night came in the third course, featuring French foie gras Torchon, sea urchin, Pain d’epice, date jam and white soy froth. The delicate combination of the foie gras-sea urchin duet and sweet date jam contrasted with the Tatenokawa 33 Junmai Daiginjo from the Yamagata prefecture.

Tatenokawa 33 Junmai Daiginjo is polished down to 33% of the original rice grain size and has a strong kick clean finish, making it perfect for toning down the sweetness of the date jam accompanying the foie gras.

(Read also: Ennichisai festival haven for Japanese culture enthusiasts)

After a series of chilled sake, the fourth course is time to really warm up for the main course. A bowl of clear soup with Japanese conger eel, onion and dashi broth is served along with warm Shirakabegura Kimoto Junmai from Kyoto.

This time, the sake is served warm, which promotes its sweet undertone of caramel. It is a bit strange to have both warm, clear liquids served at the same time, but the play of the savoriness of the soup and the sweet-dry taste of the sake is interesting.

The event’s main course features grilled Japanese wagyu striploin served on Hoba leaf with grilled vegetables dressed with red wine and miso sauce. What’s interesting about the food is the garnish of rice pops, rice grains still attached to the plant, popped in heat and creating crunchy ‘blossoms’ to add texture to the meat dish.

The wagyu dish is paired with Jyokigen Yamahai Junmai Ginjo from the Ishikawa prefecture, a type of sake that has strong acidity.

Japanese wagyu striploin served on Hoba leaf with grilled vegetables dressed with red wine and miso sauce.(JP/Asmara Wreksono)

The sixth course of the night features three types of Temari sushi: salmon, shimaaji and hotate, paired with Sakura Muromachi Jidai Kiwami Daiginjo. The dry character of the sake accentuates the seafood, is clean-tasting and definitely not for those who like a sweeter taste in their sake.

For desert, finally an Umeshu-type sake is served alongside a glass of Shisho Parfait (cream cheese mousse served with clear jelly, mango and passion fruit sauce). The Yamagata Masamune Junmai Umeshu from the Yamagata prefecture is boldly sweet, enhancing the dessert’s mild taste. A perfect closing for the cultural culinary journey.

Reservations: Sake+ (021) 7250002

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