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Jakarta Post

Designers reveal new trends for 2009

JP/J

Prodita Sabarini, (The Jakarta Post)
Jakarta
Sun, December 14, 2008

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Designers reveal new trends for 2009

JP/J. Adiguna 

A fashion show last week at the Jakarta Convention Center showed a line up of modified jodhpurs, high-heeled ankle boots worn with hosiery, plenty of black and shiny fuchsia-colored fabrics, and a designer bent for draped dresses.

The two-day Fashion Exploration 2009, sponsored by the Indonesian Fashion Designers Association (APPMI) was that industry group's introduction of next year's collections.

The selection of outfits presented in the show showed APPMI designers were giving a nod to the Greek-goddess style of draped dresses, showing off their knack in the intricate moulage technique, where designs are cut and shaped directly on dummies.

More than 800 designs from 58 designers were showcased in the event. APPMI chairman, designer Taruna Kusmayadi, said the association carried out a tight screening to select the designers who would participate in the event. The association has 147 members.

Themed "Overture in Harmony", Taruna Kusmayadi said the event was meant to trigger fresh ideas about how to reshape Indonesia's ethnic designs in a modern way.

"Our designs can form the basis for patterns, embroidery, patchwork, accessories, or other innovation and modification in various mediums and textures," he said. The designs could come from batik patterns, Javanese gebyok door carvings, temple reliefs, and other traditions, he said.

The fashion event showed apparel in five different categories -- Muslim wear, ethnic, cocktail, contemporary, and evening wear. The event also held a dedicated show for senior fashion designer and APPMI founder Poppy Dharsono. The 55-year-old industry leader used the occasion to launch her book, Redefining Heritage, about her 32 years in fashion designing.

For the fashion show, local cosmetics producer Sari Ayu painted the faces of all the models in their newest 2009 palette Cantika Jawa Timur. Inspired by East Javanese signature icons, Sari Ayu referenced the red and gold from the Reog Ponorogo traditional dance costumes as well as the blues and greens of the rambling peacocks in Alas Purwo national park.

The man who stole the show during Fashion Exploration was unquestionably Bali-based designer Oka Diputra. His clean cuts and cutting-edge designs, displayed during the second day of the event, were a breath of fresh air after the over-the-top draped dresses in previous sessions.

Titled Mille et Une Fleur (A thousand and one flowers), his collection combines inspiration from Japanese origami folding and moulage. The result is short, knee-length, and long pants so loose they fall like dresses. His tops combine Japanese kimono presentation with draped lapels.

His first exhibit was a pair of black high-waist knee-length jersey pants with a red high-collared wrap top. The model wore red leather gloves, and extreme high-heeled semi-ankle boots decorated with tassels.

Sticking to his signature colors, Oka played with basic black and red using Balinese cotton and Thai and Vietnamese silk for the origami appliqu*. He used knots and the minimum of buttons for fastenings, never zippers.

Oka said he was inspired by the three-dimensional shapes of flowers, especially tulips in this particular collection. "I try to emulate a tulip by using clean-cut moulage techniques," he said.

Aside from Oka, other established names such as Sophie, Malik Mustaram, Putu Aliki, Lenny Agustin, Defrico Audi, Deden Siswanto, Rudy Chandra and Taruna offered up the gems of the show, shining through the other designs which were just a little better than mediocre.

Lenny was true to her ethnically inspired line. In her collection Tea Time, she presented colorful modified kebaya (traditional sheer blouse), miniskirts and capri pants combined with patterned purple hosiery.

Sophie introduced jodhpurs in his collection. He playfully matched vertical black and white stripes with polka dot prints. His tops brandished 70s-inspired boho sleeves.

The flirtatious and bold designs of Malik's Spanish-inspired collection drew cheers from the crowd. The models donned a sultry look and walked the runway in high-waist tight capri pants. The 20-year-old model Dominique strutted in shiny lime green hot pants with a white torero.

At the end of Malik's show, one photographer shouted, "Long live Malik!".

While some designs shone through, the show also had boring offerings and even disappointing ones. There was a yawning gap in technique, finishing, and idea development between the designers mentioned above and the younger set.

A torn sleeve and repeated glimpses of uncut threads flowing from a dress showed some shoddy or inexperienced presentation. As for ideas, some designers think being creative means a dress should drip with crystal embroidery, heavy draping or shredding the fabric into tufts.

All in all, the successes of Fashion Exploration 2009 are a testament to the old adage: Less is more.

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