A slice of heaven: The temples sit at a great height, from where the views are spectacular.JP/Simon Marcus Gower

The narrow roads wind their way through the surrounding hills, lined by small villas for rent and modest hotels.

It appears these hills of Semarang are alive with the sound of music - or whatever other sounds issue from the surfeit of karaoke clubs in these parts, which seem out of place in the rustic hilly setting.

But as the journey continues, onward and upward, higher and higher into the hills, sights more expected of the bucolic setting come into view: Terraced rice fields, waterfalls and mountain streams, and markets selling locally grown produce.

This picturesque journey into the hills is to a group of temples known collectively as the Gedong Songo (Nine Buildings) Complex. Although the temples themselves are quite modest, there is nothing modest about their location - from Mount Ungaran at around 1,300 meters above sea level, the views are, quite simply, stunning.

The name of the temple complex is a little misleading - only five temples are still standing in reasonable condition. The others have been reduced to mere collections of the stones of buildings that did once stand here.

That great, and seemingly ubiquitous, explorer of Java in the early 19th century, Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, was a "discoverer" of the ruined temples here, although at the time he "discovered" it only seven buildings were found - the others presumably in forest-covered ruins; the complex was then known as Gedong Pitoe.

Considerable changes have taken place here since Raffles dropped by, not least the uncovering of the other two buildings.

In the 1920s and 30s, the temples referred to as Gedong I and Gedong II were restored; in the 1970s and 80s Gedong III, IV and V were restored. Now, these beautiful hills are dotted by the series of structures.

It is believed these temples date back to the 8th and 9th centuries AD, built as Hindu temples of devotion to Shiva and Vishnu. The centuries have not been kind to them, with much of their andesite stone worn down by the elements, the carvings whittled away by the wind, rain and sun.

The temple's niches are home to various figures, still surviving, though small and basic. Of particular note is the chubby figure of the elephant-headed Ganesha, as well as that of Agastya, the Shivaite teacher. Many of the niches are now empty, the finer carvings perhaps long since carried away by collectors or even museums.

In some ways, then, the actual temple buildings of Gedong Songo appear rather forlorn, being reduced to little more than rubble, and subject to years of plunder. But perhaps the temples are just an excuse to enjoy a refreshing climb through the remarkable setting.

Reaching each temple requires a trek of three to four kilometers - most of which is up. The climb is made easier by the numerous sellers of refreshments, but those that lack the necessary stamina can opt to go the distance on horseback, with plenty of horses and their wranglers waiting at the start of the temple trail.

It's made more fun by the ancients' choice of building site: All the temples seem to perch almost precariously on the hillsides.

Access to Gedong I, II and III is via a steep climb, and then you have to negotiate something of a ravine, from which issues the foul stench of sulfur.

Steam blasts from this hot sulfur spring, killing any surrounding vegetation and turning the water white or yellowish. A small bathing pool has been made here, allowing one to ease into the hot spring for relaxation or therapeutic reasons, although this seems to be discouraged by the nearby blasting steam.

Back out of the ravine and it is not far to the remaining two standing temples. The large piles of rubble near these temples suggest the complex must have once, long ago, been far more extensive. Never mind the rubble though - it is from here that the stunning scenery comes into its own.

There is no question why the temple builders chose this site for their devotional complex. The spot at this great height looks onto Mounts Merbabu, Merapi, Sumbing and Sundoro, and Lake Rawa Pening shimmers in a haze, resembling an ocean. Here, peacefulness prevails, the calm broken only by the whistling of the wind and the hissing of the sulfurous stream.

If anything, the view from this intriguing, inspiring temple site makes you feel like a god looking out across a vast and diverse creation.

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