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Leonardo da Vinci wine
Anyone producing wine in the town of Vinci, west of Florence, Italy, can be expected to name their wines after the most famous son of the town, and, in keeping with the current trend, translate the forwardness of the renaissance genius into forward wines
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nyone producing wine in the town of Vinci, west of Florence, Italy, can be expected to name their wines after the most famous son of the town, and, in keeping with the current trend, translate the forwardness of the renaissance genius into forward wines.
"We are producing modern-style Chiantis," Giovanni Nencini, vice president for sales and marketing of the Da Vinci winery, told a gathering of the city's sommeliers and F&B community in the filled-to-capacity lounge of the Chateau & Tobaccos Fine Wine & Cigar in the Xsplash Fun Square, Kemang, on Oct. 22.
"Modern-style" means fruit-driven (echoing the sweetness of ripe fruit), softer (silky or velvety texture), and more approachable (drinkable at a younger age) favored by a new generation of wine drinkers. And the Chiantis he introduced were, in the drinking order from the lightest to the most serious, Leonardo Chianti 2007, Leonardo Chianti Riserva 2005, and Leonardo Chianti San Zio 2005.
The first is composed of 85 percent Sangiovese, 10 percent Merlot and 5 percent Colorino; the other two are made entirely from Sangiovese.
All of them come from the winery's vineyards outside of Chianti Classico, the original Chianti area, and still smack of Old World wines despite the modern stylings, and characteristically exhibit the aroma of black cherry or jamblang (Java plum or Syzygium cumini).
The 2007 is a Chianti designed to be drunk young; it is a simple, light, casual wine with refreshing fruitiness and soft tannins. The Riserva 2005 - which, to qualify as a reserve wine, has spent one year in the barrel and another year in the cellar prior to bottling - has more body and structure. Its relatively high acidity underlines the sweetness of blackberries, which together with fine, pleasant tannins create a balance.
The San Zio 2005, made 100 percent from Sangiovese, comes from a single vineyard named San Zio and so reflects the characters of that particular place and is therefore, more expensive. "This is the best Chianti we can make. It is intended for a refined palate," he said. It has tooth-coating tannins and exudes the aroma of jasmine tea, eucalyptus and blackcurrant.
In addition to the three Chiantis, the Da Vinci winery also introduced a 2005 Super Tuscan labeled Sto (Santo) Ippolito, which is made from a 50-50 blend of Syrah and Merlot, and a 2003 Brunello di Montalcino labeled Palazzo Comunale.
Super Tuscan is produced under Toscana Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT), a government rule that requires that the grapes from which it is made originate from Tuscany. Because the rule does not specify the variety of the grape, the producer is free to use whatever grape varieties desired as long as they are grown in Tuscany and to showcase their wildest, most creative idea of crafting a wine.
This fruity sweet wine exudes a subtle aroma suggestive of struck matchsticks, black pepper and the sweet smell of black currant, with dark chocolate notes in its flavors and acidity underneath. It was favored by many in the F&B crowd who have grown accustomed to Australian Shiraz and Merlot and told me they personally preferred it to the Chiantis and even the top-end Brunello.
The latter is produced in a very small area around the town of Montalcino in Tuscany and cellared for five years prior to release to the market. Made entirely from Sangiovese, this solid, well-balanced wine presents an intense bouquet of sweet ripe black cherry, blackcurrant, cotton candy, eucalyptus, hints of tobacco leaves and certain floral notes with supple tannins, vanilla, spicy notes as it went down the throat, and a relatively high acidity which encircles its sweet core fruit.
All these wines are already pleasant to be drunk without food but they would taste even better with matching food because, according to Giovanni, "we Italians make our olive oil and wine with food in mind".
Understandably, Giovanni suggested that his wines should be paired with Italian food, not the spicy Indonesian food "because the spiciness of the food will kill the flavors of the wine". He also advised that if nasi goreng (fried rice) is to be paired with wine, the most suitable wine would be a structured white wine or a lighter Chianti. Would you follow his suggestion? Please let me know what you think.
