(JP/Wendra Ajistyatama)Heaven Tanudiredja never planned to be a jewelry designer
(JP/Wendra Ajistyatama)
Heaven Tanudiredja never planned to be a jewelry designer. Instead, a career in fashion design was always in his sights.
But his financial situation forced him to give the former a try, to survive during his last school year in Antwerp, Belgium.
'In my last year in school, I didn't have any money to pay the bills. The only thing I had was the stones that I had collected for years,' said the alumni of Antwerp's elite fashion school, the Royal Academy of Fine Arts.
A thought to make accessories from his stone collection then crossed his mind. He made brooches, necklaces and bracelets in simple shapes so he could sell them quickly.
'My teacher, Walter van Beirendonck, bought the accessories for his concept store, and many others contacted me to buy accessories from then on,' the 32-year-old says.
In 2007, he started to set up his namesake brand and legally launched it in 2009.
'Jewelry is just a little something I want to play around with, put all my thoughts into, hold exhibitions, make and sell it, but not too much,' he says.
He said he had some 30 stockers around the world, including in Paris, Milan, London, Vienna, Dubai, Hong Kong, Korea, Australia, New York and Chicago. His work has been sold in several famous boutiques, including Liberty in London, 10 Corso Como in Milan and Blake in Chicago.
Heaven likes to design jewelry that is very specific, detailed and complex. Many hunt for his hand-made, sculpture-like pieces to place them on show at home to admire, not to be worn.
'We also make a few simple things that people can easily wear, but my passion is to keep making sculptural jewelry.'
His designs have also been worn by models on runways during the fashion shows of Juun. J, Iris van Herpen and Bruno Pieters.
Before collaborating with designers to design jewelry, he also collaborated with several other internationally-renowned designers, such as John Galliano at Christian Dior Couture for one and a half years as well as Roberto Cavalli and Dries van Noten.
He considered himself very lucky as he did not have to apply to be able to work with the designers ' he was asked to join them instead.
'I have learned so many different things from them. For example, I learned about creating atmosphere in the design. I learned a lot about business from Dries and learned a lot about men's wear from Juun. J,' Heaven said.
After establishing a solid image on the international stage for years, Heaven then decided to come home and started to contribute something to his homeland.
His work is on display at the 'Subject to Object' exhibition held at The Papilion Duo in Pacific Place, South Jakarta.
'What brought me home? My mother got very angry because I never came home,' he laughed. Born in Bali but raised in Jakarta, Heaven always wanted to be a fashion designer since he was a little boy, although he cannot not recall why.
All he can remember is that he always liked things with aesthetic values and found that fashion was the right channel to express his passion for arts.
'My mother didn't agree when I wanted to be a designer as she wanted me to be a doctor. But of course I can't be a doctor, I'm not that smart,' said Heaven, who likes to cook and read during his spare time, which is scarce.
'But I'm a stubborn person so I just did what I wanted to do.'
He then studied at ESMOD fashion school in Jakarta and worked for noted local designer, Biyan, for five years before leaving for Antwerp to continue his fashion school.
Although he enjoys making jewelry, he still keeps up his interest in designing clothes. His experience working with fashion designers did not immediately get him into the clothing business.
He even designed his own clothes for his graduation.
'I was very busy and I couldn't do it. But I always knew that my bigger passion is in clothes and I should have started designing clothes a while ago,' he said.
'Biyan also told me to continue making clothes because I have all the basics. And usually, what Biyan says sticks in my head.'
Heaven said that as he had returned home, although he still went back and forth to Antwerp, he would start thinking about developing his fashion business here.
'But I will still have to think about it very carefully, and I hope that very soon I'll have my own clothing label.'
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