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In Ubud, talking of TEXMEX & HOT TAMALES
Glorious: Based on the holy trinity of scallions, green peppers and celery, the gumbo is delicious
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Glorious: Based on the holy trinity of scallions, green peppers and celery, the gumbo is delicious.
Greg Berlin may have been born in Texas, but now he is busy serving up gumbo, TexMex-style enchiladas, tamales and Texas chili at his Melting Pot Saloon at the end of Jl. Hanoman in Ubud.
Berlin, who used to own a blues bar in Fort Worth, says that his gumbo 'is a bit of a sleeper on the menu, but once people get switched on they go for it'.
The gumbo sings its multi-ethnic history upon hitting the palate. Berlin says that the recipe was given to him by a former girlfriend from Louisiana who made a 'killer' version of the dish.
'In Cajun cooking, there is the 'holy trinity' of scallions, green peppers and celery,' Berlin says. Roux [stock] for gumbo came from the French ' Louisiana was a French colony and there is still a big French influence. West Africa also contributed to the dish with okra ' that does have a flavor, but it's mainly used as a thickener. Sometimes ground sassafras root is used instead ' that's a nod in the dish to the Choctaw Indians.'
The menu's 'melting pot' notion of classic American food extends to the bar's walls, which are draped in flags from nation's across the globe to welcome visitors as they share stories over a game of pool ' or a bowl of chill.
The gumbo on offer, however, is a less fiery version of its spicier Texan cousins. The Melting Pot serves up a rich chili and flavorful enchiladas that are married perfectly to classic Mexican quesadilla flour tortillas.
While the mildly spicy chili dishes are not like chowing down on hot embers, the heat can be ramped up, says Berlin.
'No one makes Texas chili like we do. There are a lot of secret ingredients,' says Greg. 'Some heat hits you in the lips, some in the tongue, some in the throat and others are like an afterglow.'
Berlin describes the cultural fusion behind TexMex cuisine. 'Texas borders Mexico and we have a lot of Mexicans. So, like Chinese food, Mexican dishes became Americanized,' Berlin says, adding that there is one distinction. 'TexMex actually tends to be a lot hotter.'
The Melting Pot hosts three chili cook offs a year, according to the chef.
'We have two categories; the first is under CASI [Chili Appreciation Society International] and the second, a freestyle category. Under CASI, no beans are allowed ' it's a purist chill,' says Greg of dishes that can go off the scale in the burns department.
Also on the menu is a rarity for Bali: hot tamales. Dressed in corn husks, they pique curiosity, stripped the tamales reveal a masa, or ground corn skin, and a fantastic fiery blend of pork and spices inside. 'The tamales we make are the spicy pork variety within the masa then wrapped in corn husks and steamed,' says Berlin.
Seated at the Melting Pot's long bar is consultant chef Roland Lichert. With almost 40 years of experience under his belt, Roland knows food and is a regular.
'I appreciate the simplicity, it's easy to eat. There is a certain taste that TexMex or Mexican foods have. It's close to a tapas ' a bar food ' and it goes well with beer,' says Roland.
'The food is honest and, most importantly, it never varies. There is no disappointment, the standard is always the same. This has nothing to do with the simplicity of the dishes, but it is about the care to keep the standard and that takes effort,' says Roland.
For more information, visit meltingpotbali.com.
-Photos by JB Djwan
