When was the last time you walked in the rice fields? One of the most magical ways to enjoy Ubud, I believe, is on foot and there's something to be said for getting back to nature and walking in the fields of green that surround this fabled village
When was the last time you walked in the rice fields?
One of the most magical ways to enjoy Ubud, I believe, is on foot and there's something to be said for getting back to nature and walking in the fields of green that surround this fabled village.
Whether you jalan-jalan (take a stroll) along the narrow streets in and around the center of town or into the picturesque bamboo jungles beyond, where the pace of life slows to a saunter, the experience is always invigorating and full of surprises.
When I need to breathe mega doses of morning air and stretch my computer-aching limbs, I take a walk along the Tjampuhan ridge, on the path that straddles the East and West Woz rivers, behind our restaurant, Indus.
It's like a sun salutation of the tropical kind, a chance to revel in the glory of nature with all the soft, fuzzy feelings that come with the sweet smiles received from pig-tailed school girls in crimson and white uniforms and miniature Balinese farmers that you pass on the way.
A stroll amongst elephant grass, coconut trees and picture-perfect rice fields does something to the soul. If Kerala is said to be "God's own country", then Bali must surely be "God's own garden".
The glossy morning light in a fresh blue sky and the sounds of nature always slap you with an "it's great to be alive" feeling. And isn't that the best happy drug you can enjoy. Better still, it's free.
Even the "whoosh, whoosh" sound of bamboo brooms sweeping the compound in the village is one of the simplest and most pleasurable sound sensations on the planet. And if you are out early enough, you will see a pearly moon hanging overhead and the dew "of angels cooking" hovering above the river. That's what my husband, Ketut, says it is and I believe him. Because in "Gods own garden" angels must surely be living and eating by the cool waters, enjoying a life of luxury of the greenest kind. A movable, mystical feast.
You can say that there truly are health benefits to be gained by walking in the rice fields. I remember when Aristides Katoppo, founder of Sinar Harapan newspaper, attended our second Ubud Writers & Readers Festival in 2005. It was shortly after he had suffered a light stroke and the rejuvenating energy of a stroll in nature had a huge impact on his recovery.
He walked every morning and this outdoor therapy proved so addictive that dear Bapak Aristides forgot to show up to his session at the Festival. He spent the morning roaming in a field of dreams when he was supposed to be leading a discussion on journalism in Indonesia. Such is the magic of Ubud*
The Tjampuhan walk begins at the turn-off to the Ibah hotel and wanders past the school and down those oh-so-deep stairs that lead you across the mossy stone bridge to the Tjampuhan temple, Pura Gunung Lebah.
One of my favorite temples in Ubud, Pura Gunung Lebah, is said to be built near sacred caves and dates back to the eighth century when the sage Rsi Markandya came to town and claimed the site as a place for worship.
This ancient temple is believed to have a powerful dose of cosmic energy and a ceremony held in its grounds is always a majestic affair.
Beyond the temple, the walk takes you across a hillside of elegant elephant grass until you eventually reach the village, Bangkiang Sidem. The name of this village translates as "the back of the black ant", and this small mountain certainly resembles that shape.
And speaking of drinking in nature, you can sip it in, literally, on this walk, with the juice of fat green coconuts. There is a farmer who usually jumps out from behind one of the coconut trees just before you reach Bangkiang Sidem, offering refreshments to thirsty travelers. Morning price, of course.
This cheery grandpa has adopted one of the shady palms as his makeshift shop front and, once the sun has risen, it is open for business. I am a huge fan of coconut juice. On a hot day I will guzzle the cool liquid of one or two of these, letting it dribble down my chin in a Robinson Crusoe-type fervor. I will tell you about its virtues another time.
Welcome to Bangkiang Sidem. Tidy Balinese compounds rub shoulders with expatriate homes, in a rustic embrace. Tall trees offer shade after the heat of a sun-burnt journey across the hill. Miniature paintings fill the occasional shop and Balinese dogs of all sizes defend their beloved territory.
I love the filtered light of these small towns and the velvet feeling of unpaved roads, a certain softness under the feet. And then there are the kitchen fragrances of fresh coconut oil, fried shallots and shrimp paste and the scent of steaming rice.
By now I usually succumb to the seduction of breakfast and seek a driver to take me home, pronto. Makan dulu*
But if I am feeling particularly energetic, or if my friend, Elizabeth, spurns me on, I will walk to Payogan, up and over the next hill (I don't do it very often, sigh*).
There are other magical walks that lead you off the beaten track, past dramatic ravines, banyan trees, rambling villas, manicured homestays and schools. Sometimes I have had the pleasure of passing young folk I know as they help in gotong-royong (working together) temple activities or students as they pray together in the school yards.
Waves and cries of "Halo Ibu" break the morning silence and it is these honest pleasures that stay in your heart. There is something about the essence of village life, seeing the spirit of a community that works together and lives so humble that make these early morning walks so enchanting. If John Le Carre said "to have another language is to have another soul", then to observe and absorb another culture is to have another voice. Lessons for living of the most compassionate kind.
In the meantime, take a walk around Ubud and enjoy the honest pleasures that this country town provides. All it costs is a little time out of your day. It's as simple as that. But the glow on the cheeks will last for hours and the memory will last a lifetime.
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