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A complete experience: Mad Cow Bandung review
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Finishing touches: Mad Cow's kitchen crew torch the lobsters before being served. (Courtesy of Mad Cow Bandung) (Courtesy of Mad Cow Bandung/Courtesy of Mad Cow Bandung)
The latest addition to Bandung’s growing fine-dining scene, Mad Cow aims to provide a holistic epicurean experience.
What makes a good steak? While some might point to the quality of beef or the cooking finesse, Bandung fine-dining establishment Mad Cow shows that the overall dining experience is ultimately what stays in our memories. This is the restaurant’s whole concept.
Located atop the Pullman Bandung Grand Central hotel in the heart of the city, Mad Cow differs from other high-end establishments, which are typically situated in the city’s north. In an elevator that stops right at the restaurant’s entrance, guests are greeted by a red statue of the restaurant’s highland-cow Maddie, which welcomes them into the lounge and dining room with a view of Bandung’s cityscape to the left and the open kitchen to the right.
Classic look and feel
While Mad Cow is officially a part of the hotel, it is designed as a standalone restaurant, which is reflected in its interior. Completely different from the rest of the building, the restaurant's interior takes inspiration from the film Moulin Rouge!, 1920s New York and Bandung’s very own railway station from the same time period -- referenced in its ceilings and private dining-room designs.
Mad Cow impresses early with a selection of wines that are offered with attentive recommendations in accordance with the guests’ personal tastes and whole dinner. Appetizers are crafted carefully, with each element balancing out the others.
The masterful balance is perhaps demonstrated most prominently in the foie gras dish, made from French free-range ducks’ hearts, served alongside a rocket salad, Modena balsamic dressing and grilled brioche.
While rocket leaves can often be bitter, the bitterness of the leaves paired with the dressing’s astringency struck an excellent harmony with the foie gras’ richness. Another noteworthy starter includes the baked crabcakes, made from Maryland jumbo crabs cooked with panko breadcrumbs, served on top of a fresh mango sauce with parmesan foam.
The steaks are made with utmost care while the beef is sourced from the United States, Japan and Australia, with both dry aged and fresh options. The steaks are exclusively cooked over a wood fire before being rested and cooked again in a Josper grill -- the first procedure creates a beautiful outside texture while the second infuses the meat with smokiness and flavors from its own fat. For grilling, locally sourced mango and rambutan wood are selected for their hint of fruitiness.
The many choices of beef ensure that there is something for everyone’s taste, with preference being the deciding factor. Notable highlights of the selection include the Japanese A5 wagyu striploin and Australian dry-aged tomahawk -- personal favorites of the chef which showcase the characteristics of their respective breed and origin. Paired with a deep-ruby cabernet sauvignon, the steaks’ perfectly red center mirrors that of the wine.
On the side
Beyond the colors, the richly flavored cuts match very well with the wine’s fruity notes, which freshen the palate in-between bites. The same level of care extends to other dishes on the menu. Another highlight of the night is the lobster thermidor, made from bamboo lobsters sourced fresh from Lombok.
For those who prefer to match their meal with side dishes of their own choosing, Mad Cow also has it covered with selections such as creamy spinach and truffle fries. Faced with such strong main dishes, however, it is understandable if one opts to skip the side dishes to savor the main course as a sole focus -- which does not take away from the wholeness of the experience.
While the dessert choice is limited, the molten-chocolate-lava cake is a fine choice, which proves to be suitable to finish off the menu’s highlights. The Manjari Madagascar 64-percent dark chocolate and raspberry compote make for a delightful blend of bitter and sour notes. The dessert’s rather subdued sweetness also suits the wine well, should you have any left in the glass.
Varying elements
Chef-de-cuisine Bastian Muntu told The Jakarta Post that marrying disparate elements in his cooking is a deliberate decision; ingredients sourced both locally and internationally, or cooking with techniques derived from the West while serving the food in a local context.
Earlier during dinner, chef Bastian made his rounds to each table, asking guests how the dishes tasted while explaining each of their components. He also stated that most of the dishes’ portions are intentionally made to be shared, something that might be scoffed at in fine-dining establishments in other parts of the world.
“I want the guests to come home with a story, not just a full stomach,” shared chef Bastian about his goal by the end of our conversation. As the night was wrapping up and the napkins were being unfolded from laps and left on the table, it seems that he has achieved just that.
