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Off the tips of sand dunes
A group of four-wheeled cars cruise sand dunes in Dubai
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A group of four-wheeled cars cruise sand dunes in Dubai.
As the cosmopolitan heart of the Middle Eastern region, Dubai has all the wonders of a modern day metropolis, and a little bit more. This includes an oscillating dessert excursion that incites extra perspiration and wobbly feet.
Underneath the staunch blue sky, the seamless sand dunes thrust and billow, rolling out a rollercoaster track on which a daredevil driver cruises fearlessly in a four-wheeled ride. For passengers, it feels much like a sail in a raging ocean.
It was my virgin trip to the desert when a tour organizer took a group of journalists dune-bashing one afternoon, 25 kilometers away from downtown Dubai. The excursion began as a normal safari with a casual visit to a camel ranch. The drivers, dressed in traditional white thoub Arab attire, later reduced the pressure in the automobiles’ tires and drove deeper into the desert — with flagrant disregard of conventional driving manners.
The curving sand dunes were challenges that the drivers seemed so fond to conquer. The SUV that I rode in bounced fervently as it charged up and barreled down the red sandy grit. Riding without a seat belt is not a good idea because one would be mostly upside down while the car recklessly maneuvers the steeps of mounting dunes.
Our car’s driver, Yasser Ahmad Saadi, thrived on the anxious cheers of his passengers. He stretched evermore extreme spins each time he heard our shrills grow louder. Once, he took a sideways turn circling the precipice of a steep slope, which was welcomed by silence. Just like me, the five other passengers feared the car would tip over into the abyss.
“I love off-road driving. Whenever I get the chance to take a spin on a curious track, I just go for it. The screams make me more excited,” said the Yemeni, who has been in the business for five years.
He said it takes a special license to be permitted to drive off-road because it requires certain skills to do it safely. But he bragged that it did not take long for him to obtain the skill because of his genuine passion for driving.
After a 23-kilometer ride, we almost lost our excitement because Saadi had gone so mad with his spins that the giddiness of the cruise had turned into sea sickness. That was when we stopped to watch the glowing red sun setting across the streaming sands.
An abra, a traditional water taxi, crosses Dubai creek, an international trade hub for centuries. 
An evening dinner in the middle of the desert closed the safari. We were taken to a Bedouin-style camp where we were spoiled by a smorgasbord of grilled cuisine and a classy arrangement of savory fresh salads. A belly dancer helped light up the night.
“[The off-road tour] was really exciting but I got all dizzy after a while,” said Delphine Dumonceau, another tour participant who was in the same car with me. It was also her first time touring the dessert.
The extreme jolts during the off-road journey could be compared with strong airplane turbulence. That is why the tour is not recommended for pregnant women or the elderly.
Nevertheless, the dune-bashing would be an interesting option for those looking for more than another steady cruise about the city.
— Photos by JP/Adisti Sukma Sawitri
Getting around
Deira: Dubai is not all about skyscrapers. The real pulse of the city beats in Deira, the old city center where traditional markets (souks) are located. There, jewelry lovers will find the Gold Souk market at its modest establishment in a three-storey building, which is home to many shops selling the most beautifully crafted gold pieces. Behind the building is the Spice Souk area, and also an array of small multi-storey buildings where residents live and work at their shops. Within walking distance visitors can also reach the Naif textile market, where residents usually shop for their clothing and daily necessities. Beautiful saris and hundreds of other kinds of fabrics are sold at relatively cheap prices.
Al Bastakiya: With the traditional abra ride passing the Dubai creek from the market area, one can reach Al Bastakiya, one of the oldest settlements in Dubai, which was established in late 19th century. Once famous for its pearl production in the Dubai creek, present-day Bastakiya preserves old buildings that are used as shops and residential areas. Al Fahidi Fort, built in the 18th century, is also located in the area. The fort, which has become Dubai Museum, which in its courtyard displays a replica of a “dhow”, a vessel once used by the region’s famed merchant sailors.
Burj Khalifa: Previously known as Burj Dubai, the tallest man-made structure stands over 828 meters above ground, incorporating more than 160 stories. Standing on its observation desk at level 124, visitors get the best view of the Dubai cityscapes.
The observation deck is also equipped with a device with which visitors can see the landscape before and after the massive construction boom that followed the oil splurge era that began in the 1960s. Prepare your best cameras to take pictures from here, because the backlight can be very intense beneath the glaring desert sun.
