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Jakarta Post

Sun. Sea. Earth. Ivan Gunawan’s Khalif menswear

Ivan GunawanThe name Ivan Gunawan is synonymous with variety shows and ornate, flamboyant designs

Josa Lukman (The Jakarta Post)
Jakarta
Sat, December 15, 2018

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Sun. Sea. Earth. Ivan Gunawan’s Khalif menswear

Ivan Gunawan

The name Ivan Gunawan is synonymous with variety shows and ornate, flamboyant designs. Now one can add budget-friendly menswear to the mix.

Ivan has broken into the burgeoning menswear market with his latest line, Khalif.

While Khalif is not Ivan’s first foray into menswear, it is the first to be mass-produced, as his Jajaka line is limited due to the use of batik textiles into its designs.

During the brand’s launch event, Ivan explained the Khalif line was for men ranging from 20 to 45 years old, both in metropolitan cities and rural regions.

With prices ranging from Rp 75,000 (US$5.18) for T-shirts to Rp 450,000 for heavier pieces like shirts and jackets, Khalif is positioned to be an aspirational brand for Indonesia’s middle class, fitting in behind international high-street brands that dominate Jakarta’s myriad malls.

Even the name itself suggests some form of aspirational desire, as Khalif is derived from an Arabic word that translates to “success”.

Ivan, ever known for his elaborate womenswear designs, acknowledged that the brand was quite the departure for him, especially in terms of pushing down production costs.

“I’m used to dealing with fabrics that cost in the millions by the meter, and it’s hard to find a good quality fabric for Rp 45,000 by the meter,” Ivan said, noting that he exclusively used fabrics produced domestically for the brand, ranging from linen and canvas to denim.

Another noticeable departure can be seen in the design features, as Ivan said Indonesian men were not known for their experimental style when it came to color and design.

“I’m not showing my most idealistic side [with Khalif]. However, the line is very dynamic and modern.”

To his credit, Ivan has managed to make Khalif’s first collection compelling for first-time buyers.

Staged at Empirica, South Jakarta, Khalif’s first presentation is distinctly Ivan Gunawan in vibe thanks to a gigantic, multileveled stage, dramatic lighting and booming soundtrack.

The collection’s 61 looks are split into three elements: Sun, with touches of khaki and maroon; Sea, with calming blues and whites juxtaposed with plaid patterns; and Earth, comprising black and white and every shade in between.

The presentation itself was also split into three parts, with the first part being more preppy and smart-casual in style.

A humble shirt is elevated through the use of multicolored panels, both as a print or sewn on patchwork style, and paired with rolled up or cropped trousers as a way to showcase the models’ footwear, perhaps as an acknowledgement to the sneaker-head subculture that places a high emphasis on designer sneakers.

A navy short-sleeved shirt is embellished with rectangular patchwork in lighter shades of blue placed on the right panel, while a white, work-appropriate long-sleeved shirt in white is given a similar treatment on both panels.

Simplified: Khalif caters to every segment of the market, including Islamic wear.
Simplified: Khalif caters to every segment of the market, including Islamic wear.

On the more casual side, a long, boxy T-shirt in navy features a geometric panel in white, accentuated with a single yellow stripe that draws just the right amount of attention without overwhelming the ensemble.

A change in music signifies a new set of models, with the second part being distinctly more Islamic in theme.

Cropped and capri-length trousers in neutral colors, which seem to be a common theme for Khalif, are much more apparent during the second part of the presentation.

The ubiquitous baju koko is also present, albeit with the clothing’s commonly seen embroidery swapped out with patchwork panels in soft colors, in line with the design language of the previously shown shirts.

The third and final theme departs from the traditional, with contemporary, urban street fashion being key elements for the remainder of the presentation.

Graphic T-shirts are par for the course in men’s street fashion, as are statement jackets. Khalif’s offerings in comparison feel much more subdued, but make sense when one takes into account Ivan’s opinion that Indonesian men are not as bold in experimenting with colors and style compared to their international peers.

Shades of gray and blue make up many of Khalif’s color palette, but hints of more vibrant colors can sometimes be seen, most notably with a gray bomber jacket that opens to reveal a bright red lining, a welcome contrast when paired with a pair of patterned black joggers and monochromatic sneakers.

With a full lineup of modern if slightly sedate menswear on offer, Khalif makes for a convincing competitor in the field, and only time will tell if its allure is enough to beat out its Swedish and Spanish counterparts.

— Photos courtesy of Muara Bagdja team

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