What image comes to mind when the phrase "afternoon tea" pops up? Perhaps it is a quaint scene delivered straight from Downton Abbey, in which two Victorian-era socialites make themselves comfortable around a patio table as they discuss the juiciest gossip of the day while having sponge cake. Posh fantasies aside, the fact remains that afternoon tea parties have stood the test of time and been one of the best-known British social customs since the reign of Queen Victoria.

Jump to 2022 and The Langham Jakarta is determined to introduce the Albion's swanky tradition in the heart of the city’s business district with the opening of ALICE. A tea room designed as a grand café, ALICE welcomed its first customers on March 9. Preserving the authenticity of a venerable custom is nice and all, but in the eyes of the people behind ALICE, afternoon tea parties are not exclusively for socialites or governors' wives. After all, this is not a British period piece – this is modern Jakarta, home for some of the most diverse and inquisitive foodies in the country.

"We're open to anyone. Everybody who wants to experience fresh products, natural products and also homemade products," said Alexander Poindl, The Langham Jakarta’s general manager.

My cup of tea: Located on the lobby level of The Langham, Jakarta, ALICE offers afternoon tea delights and European pastries. (Photo Courtesy of The Langham, Jakarta). (Personal collection/Courtesy of The Langham, Jakarta)

Alice's adventures in Jakarta

The concept of ALICE was inspired by Lewis Carroll's famous English children's novel Alice's Adventures in Wonderland. According to Alexander, there is an invisible string that connects the novel to the history of The Langham hotels.

"The first Langham hotel in the world – The Langham, London – was opened in 1865. This was the year when Alice's Adventures in Wonderland was published in London," he said.

A particular chapter from the novel further informed the "elegant and playful" spirit of ALICE: "A Mad Tea Party", the seventh chapter of the novel, in which the protagonist Alice becomes a guest at a "mad tea party", along with dubious characters, namely the Dormouse, the Hatter and the March Hare. During the party, Alice is forced to solve multiple riddles by the Hatter – his iconic riddle being, "Why is a raven like a writing desk?"

"The tea party never ends because the clock is stuck at 6 p.m. They can't move on, so they have to drink tea all day, every day," said Alexander.

A nod to Alice's Adventures in Wonderland can also be seen in the cutlery and interior design of ALICE. One of the plates, for instance, is deliberately designed to emulate “the clock Alice is running from”, Alexander pointed out. Moreover, the choice to employ "symmetrically balanced" European-style Art Deco in the tea room's interior generates a sensation not unlike what Alice experiences down the rabbit hole.

"When the guests enter, we want them to be like, 'Where am I? Is this Jakarta? Is this Vienna? Is this Istanbul? Is this London?'" he chuckled.

World of wonder: The main dining area of ALICE draws inspiration from the European-style Art Deco to inspire a sense of wonder from its guests. (Photo Courtesy of The Langham, Jakarta) (Personal collection/Courtesy of The Langham, Jakarta)

Alexander concurred that thorough research and preparations had been made to ensure that ALICE's British values would fit the sensibilities of Indonesians, most particularly Jakartans. He believed that the Brits' custom of having afternoon tea would bode well with how Jakartans "like to celebrate with two or three or four or more with friends and family”.

Ultimately, everything came down to an appealing meal.

"Basically, we have had a lot of tests, with the food and the pastry items. We did all of the tastings with Indonesians, of course, to attract the Indonesian palates," said Alexander.

What’s more, Alexander noted that Jakartans responded well to a premium meal that, nonetheless, came at a "reasonable" cost.

"We also want to take away this touch of 'a-bit-too-elite'," he continued. "Of course, we want to celebrate the heritage of The Langham, but also, the price of the afternoon tea shows that we really want to [spread] the word."

A mad (Sudirman) tea party

ALICE offers two different afternoon tea collections: "LANGHAM AFTERNOON TEA" and "ALICE AFTERNOON TEA". Luckily, the pastry chefs and the attendants at ALICE are always available to offer their guidance to first-time guests. Case in point, Serhat Mirzakli, the executive pastry chef of The Langham Jakarta, recommended the “LANGHAM AFTERNOON TEA" for first-timers as it offered more traditional British delights.

For the "ALICE AFTERNOON TEA", the menu consists of two different elements: appetizer bites and sweet treats. The overall cuisine is, as described by the pastry booklet, "the legendary British afternoon tea with French influence". The appetizer bites, or the "savory items", consist of smoked salmon vol au vent, a lobster doughnut, Wagyu beef tartare with sourdough bread sticks, English beef pot pie and caviar-topped truffled egg brioche.

"When we talk about afternoon tea, it's not only about tea and cakes," Alexander chimed in.

Tea for all: Alexander Poindl, the General Manager of The Langham, Jakarta, affirms that ALICE is open to anyone and not just the elites. (Photo Courtesy of The Langham, Jakarta) (Personal collection/Courtesy of The Langham, Jakarta)

The sweet treats, on the other hand, include salted caramel chocolate mousse cake, a raspberry tartlet with crème patissiere, rose water petits choux, ALICE’s signature baklava, which was inspired by Chef Serhat's mother's recipe, dulce de leche churros, Breton chocolate-coated dates kouign-amann and traditional English scones, for which the recipe comes courtesy of The Langham's flagship hotel: The Langham London.

Chef Serhat pointed out that when it came to sweet items, "We don't use [extra] sugar. For example, we have the rose choux and its sweetness comes from the raspberry jelly and Valrhona chocolate”.

In addition, ALICE is also committed to strictly employing only, in Chef Serhat's words, "organic materials and local products". The raspberry tartlet with crème patissiere, for instance, is a twist on a classic, European summer desert by imbuing it with a local touch; the tart is made with vanilla from Flores Island.

The tea collection also offers an enticing degree of variety, from traditional ones, such as Earl Grey, to more exotic alternatives, such as fruit-flavored infusions originating from the African plant rooibos. 

Besides a cup of tea, any guest who is in the mood for something more stimulating may examine ALICE's special wine menu. Its collection ranges from France's Delachapelle Voignier and Chapoutier La Ciboise to Italy's Veuve du Vernay. A boutique bar is also burrowed in ALICE, specializing in Champagne, French Rosé and Gin — ALICE Coffee Martini being one of the bar's recommended mash-ups.

"However, all of our food is halal," Alexander noted.

ALICE is located on the lobby level of The Langham, Jakarta, situated in District 8 of Sudirman Central Business District (SCBD) in South Jakarta. Brunch is offered daily from 7:30 a.m. to 1 p.m., and afternoon tea is served from 1:30 p.m. to 6 p.m. Dinner service starts at 6 p.m. The dress code is smart casual.