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Jakarta Post

House of Yuen: A Cantonese feast for the eyes

House of Yuen, a contemporary Chinese cuisine eatery, balances Cantonese delicacies with Indonesian flavors to accommodate the taste buds of locals.

Yun Kyung Kim (The Jakarta Post)
Jakarta
Tue, August 22, 2017

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House of Yuen: A Cantonese feast for the eyes Glitzy interior: House of Yuen features blue and gold decor to emphasize the elegant interior design. (House of Yuen/File)

A fine-dining experience calls for elevated food presentation in elegant surroundings.

In fact, it is hard to go wrong with a fine-dining restaurant, especially if it offers Cantonese cuisine at one of the most luxurious hotels in the city.

Located at the Fairmont hotel, famous for its wide selection of world gastronomy, House of Yuen boasts a luxurious dining experience based on its location alone.   

It uses lavish plating and ambience to complement the vibrancy of the dishes.

At the end of the day, we don’t only eat with our mouths but also our eyes.

In fact, House of Yuen prides itself for operating under the one Michelin Star, Sun Tung Lok from Hong Kong. Although it might aesthetically please visitors with great plating, it unfortunately fails to deliver the anticipated taste.

Instead it offers a menu selection that we are already very familiar with that is not unique on its own.

The menu has an array of options, from relatively affordable starters and classic Chinese barbeque dishes to live seafood main dishes.

Among the abundant range of selections, the most notable dishes are the house signature menus recommended on each page.

To begin, the menu offers a fine read of appetizers priced from Rp. 58,000 (US$4.33) per portion.

For starters, the diced ox tongue in XO chili sauce is served in petite bite-sized cubes, braised in a spicy seafood sauce from Hong Kong.

Although the dish should have vibrant flavors, the taste of the tongue itself is hardly memorable, but rather the texture of the tongue is the main experience of the dish.

In fact, for those who are not familiar with exotic Chinese cuisine, the firm muscle-like texture of the tongue might feel odd at first.

Considering the popularity for seafood in Cantonese restaurants, House of Yuen offers a variety of seafood starters.

The deep-fried squid head with salt and pepper, which is a staple favorite at most Chinese restaurants, offers a familiar taste found in most typical Chinese restaurants.

Deep-fried squid head with salt and pepper
Deep-fried squid head with salt and pepper (JP/Yun Kyung Kim)

Each individual squid is coated with golden batter, producing an almost powdery crust. The crunchy morsels of fried squid head are lightly seasoned with spices that deliver an aromatic traditional flavor with each bite.

However, the deep-fried prawns with wasabi aioli can be considered the best out of the three signature appetizers.

The texture and flavor is equivalent to the commonly known shrimp mayonnaise with a slight hint of wasabi to freshen the taste buds from the overpowering kick of aioli.

When it comes to the main dish of any Chinese restaurant, we cannot leave out the favorite peking duck.

The roasted duck is ritualistically cut into small pieces of skin assembled on a pancake, which is then rolled with a slice of cucumber and spring onion.

Roasted peking duck
Roasted peking duck (JP/Yun Kyung Kim)

House of Yuen delivers good peking duck, however, the pancakes are proportionately much bigger than the filling.

In fact, it is quite difficult for a restaurant to go wrong with individually wrapped peking duck, as long as the ingredients are fresh. However, the presentation of the food is what makes a restaurant to stand out.

Likewise, the peking duck wraps were awkwardly served on a simple white plate with a side of prawn crackers, which did not complement each other in anyway.

To compensate for the disappointing presentation of the peking duck, the menu offers braised prime rib of beef with house gravy for protein lovers.

Braised prime rib
Braised prime rib (JP/Yun Kyung Kim)

The wagyu rib is presented on a gold plate that emphasizes every element of the dish. The meat tempts the eyes with its rich marbling, which is complemented by the vibrant colors of the diced carrots, asparagus and broccoli. Of course, the house gravy bursts with aromatic flavors that is a perfect combination between sweet and savory.

To completely satisfy those with a sweet tooth, the menu offers a collection of desserts.

Unlike a few of the other signature dishes, the desserts did not disappoint.

The sweet sesame and salty egg yolk bun really highlights the dining experience. The chewy sesame bun surprises with a warm runny filling that is perfectly light and creamy, a taste that would appeal to all age groups.

Although Indonesia has been exposed to Cantonese cuisine, House of Yuen is a restaurant that designed its menu for the Indonesian palate.

“We fused the taste of Cantonese delicacies and the flavors of Indonesian spices, but we did not compromise the quality of the dishes,” said Carline Darjanto, host of the House of Yuen tasting event.

House of Yuen focuses on providing a menu that is known to Indonesians by mixing dishes from different places, rather than changing the actual recipes.

“It’s a mix of dishes from different places, not just from Hong Kong. For example, the deep-fried prawns with wasabi aioli is from Singapore, and the braised prime rib of beef is from Hong Kong,” said executive chef Jeff Lee.

Similar to its menu, House of Yuen’s physical space is synonymous with the vibrancy of the Chinese touch combined with contemporary design to meet the likings of Indonesians.

It houses itself on a lengthy strip of space that looks out to the heart of Jakarta. With the interior stylishly embellished with sophisticated yet not too overbearing adornments, it fuses the colors of blue and gold to harmonize the elegant atmosphere.

Although the interior boasts a great ambience, ultimately, a restaurant should be judged by the quality of its food.

At end of the day, the restaurant is located at one of the most upscale spots in the city, yet it executes dishes at a level common to other casual dining Chinese eateries.

Considering its location and price level, House of Yuen is a restaurant that would be enjoyed by those who place dining experience over taste.

 

Address: House of Yuen, Fairmont Hotel Jakarta, Level 3

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The writer is an intern at The Jakarta Post.

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