The lesser-known is not necessarily inferior to the well-known. In fact, for some delicacies, the opposite sometimes hold true. Such is the case with Billecart-Salmon, a champagne produced by a family-owned and run business, introduced at a rare champagne dinner earlier this month at Casa d'Oro, Hotel Indonesia Kempinski's fine dining establishment.
This lovely, finely crafted bubbly exuded delicate refinement, elegance and irresistible seduction veering off the beaten path of internationally acclaimed, well-known and mass-produced champagnes such as Mo*t & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, etc. The rare non-vintage champagne served in Jakarta - thanks to Jaya Sukamto, an importer with a high business acumen and good taste to match it - was all the more enjoyable as it was served with beluga caviar, the most expensive type of caviar very rarely seen at any wine dinner in Jakarta. Yet, these dark grey, firm, well-separated, moderately salty eggs served as mere titillating garnishes assorted with greens and diced granny smith apple atop a kingfish carpaccio.
Disappointing as the large-portioned, uninspiring risotto might have been, despite being made from the excellent Vialone Nano rice, and notwithstanding the flaky and dry curry-roasted scallops, which Andritz Hydro President Director Josef M. Ullmer described as "all fibers", the starter, a pumpkin ravioli with a touch of parmesan and balsamic vinegar, and the main course, a "Pisa" tower of Rossini veal mignon with porcini mushroom and black truffle jus, were astounding.
The veal mignon was matched with a fragrant, and delicious 2006 red Burgundy produced by one of Burgundy's top producers, Maison Louis Jadot, from its wholly-owned plot, the Clos de la Croix de Pierre located in the village of Pernand-Vergelesses, in the sub-region of the C*te de Beaune. This finest premier cru wine of Pernand exhibited earthy overtones of the first drops of rain hitting the sun-baked clayware, a smell of dried roses, cinnamon and flavors of ripe cherry, redcurrant and vanilla.
Roasted hazelnut and ripe white-fruit flavors exuded from the three Billecart-Salmon champagnes: the Brut Reserve Non Vintage (NV), the Cuv*e (a selected vat of a blend of wines) Nicolas Fran*ois Billecart 1998 and the Cuv*e Elisabeth Salmon Brut Ros* 2000. The other Billecart-Salmon - Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru NV - was an ultra-bright, fresh, crisp and delightful extravaganza of delicious Chardonnay fruit. All of them were soft attacks on the palate except the more vigorous 1998 one, their bubbles vanishing in about 13 or 14 minutes.
The Brut Reserve, made from Pinot Noir (50 percent), Chardonnay (20 percent) and Pinot Meunier (20 percent), impressed the connoisseur with its sweet white-flower nose and its delicious smell of brioche or custard.
The Cuv*e Nicolas Fran*ois Billecart 1998 showcased a dramatic tug of war between ripe-fruit sweetness and powerful, besieging acidity reminiscent of the fight between the Montagues and the Capulets in Sergei Prokofiev's Romeo and Juliet. This blend of 40 percent Chardonnay from the Grand Crus of the Cote de Blancs, and 60 percent Pinot Noir from the Grand Crus of the Montagne de Reims, was savory, with hints of toffee on the onset and an intriguing, complex nose that included brioche, very ripe fruit and tobacco near the finish.
The Cuv*e Elisabeth Salmon 2000 ran out quickly, perhaps because it was considered a prestigious millennium cuv*e, as well as being the only ros*, which was served last. It comprised an equal blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vinified as white wine, to which some Pinot Noir from Mareuil-sur-A*, vinified as red wine, was added.
Despite its charming nose of freshly baked butter and egg-based cakes, red berry fruits and tea flavors, good acidity and a spicy finish, it was, for me, the least exciting of the four. It paled in comparison to Veuve Clicquot's outstanding, memorable 1998 La Grande Dame.
This time, the lesser-known was inferior to the well-known. Although, to compare the two is rather awkward as 1998 was a better champagne vintage year than 2000.
As the clock was ticking closer to midnight, all the champagnes left turned into still wine, tables were cleared, and no more toasts were proposed. The lesser-known had quietly left inside me a bubbling excitement that refused to stand still.
