Under the sun: A child watches a jockey racing his horse. JP/Hotli Simanjuntak

The Gayo highlands is also renowned for producing great coffee. Central Aceh’s best-known blends are sold in Europe as Gayo Mountain Coffee.

“Coffee estates in the highlands are the most extensive plantations in Indonesia today. Almost everyone here earns a living by growing coffee,” Bachtiar Gayo, a coffee farmer in Takengon, said.

Gayo is located on top of a mountain range that stretches from the tip of Aceh to Lampung. Central Aceh is comprised of three regencies: Central Aceh, Bener Meriah and Gayo Lues.

The people there call the region Tanah Gayo, or the land of the Gayo, and identify themselves as Gayo and not Acehnese.

“Gayo’s people believe the Gayo are Aceh’s indigenous population, while coastal ethnic communities are of Indian and Tamil origins,” Bachtiar said. The Gayo are culturally enriched by Batak, Chinese, Javanese, Padang and coastal Acehese cultural influences.

Gayo is famous for its natural scenery, making it one of the country’s most popular destinations for local and foreign tourists. Most appealing is Lake Lut Tawar, which covers hundreds of hectares in Central Aceh’s mountainous zone. The provincial capital, Takengon, sits by the lake at an altitude of 2,600 meters.

Lake Lut Tawar is home to the depik fish. The species, thought to be endemic, has become part of the catch of local fishermen.

Gayo is accessible by charter flights from Medan to Rembele airport or by commercial flights from Medan to Banda Aceh and then overland to Takengon. Public buses take about nine hours to reach Gayo from Medan or Banda Aceh.

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