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The mask of unity
Nestled in a box and tucked away in one of Gianyar’s hundreds of temples rests a most precious relic of Indonesian history
Nestled in a box and tucked away in one of Gianyar’s hundreds of temples rests a most precious relic of Indonesian history.
Keepers of history: King of Blahbatuh, Ratu I Gusti Ngurah Djelantik, and Queen A.A. Ayu Mirah stand in front of a statue of Airlangga riding Garuda.
This is the mask of the Majapahit Empire’s greatest prime minister, Gajah Mada, the man responsible for the unification of the Indonesian archipelago during the 13th century.
The story of his mask was 600 years in the making according to King of Blahbatuh, Ratu I Gusti Ngurah Djelantik, who explains its potted history that veered between the kings of Bali and Java in the days before written history began.
“To understand how the mask of Gajah Mada came to be in Bali, I need to give you the short version of our history, which dates from the 8th century with the rise here in Bali of the Warmadewa dynasty. This was long before the Majapahit and I am a direct descendent of that first King of Bali, Sri Kesari Warmadewa,” says Djelantik of his own history that can be traced back over the centuries through 1,200 years of royal blood.
Today this king and his family frequently attend local ceremonies, “The people expect this. It is important that we attend and give to our community,” says Djelantik, now 65 years of age and keeper of the royal oral history of his family.
“To cut a long story short, the Warmadewa dynasty lived on the lower lands of Bali while the Bali Aga lived in the mountains. They had a good relationship with the Kings of Java and in time King Prabu Udayana, who set up the irrigation system here in Bali, married Mahendradatta from Java. They sent their son Airlangga to Java who then became the King of Kediri.
“Later came Tri Buana Tungga Dewi — a queen who married Cakra Darah and so came the Majapahit dynasty. All these kings and queens came from Airlangga, and that’s why Gajah Mada’s mask returned to Bali,” says Djelantik, adding this is the oral history of his family that has been taught from father to sons and daughters throughout the ages.
Gajah Mada’s mask, Djelantik explains, was sent to Bali in the 14th century to calm the civil wars occurring after the Majapahit invasion of the island.
“Bali refused to be conquered by the Majapahit — they were of our family and had roots here in Bali. But Gajah Mada had made his famous oath to unite the nation and he would not rest until that was achieved.
By the 14th century, Djelantik goes on, the Bali Aga were revolting and Bali had been conquered in the wars. The Brahmin Adi Pati was sent here as governor, but he was not happy and wanted to return to Java.
“So Gajah Mada, as a very clever strategist, sent the descendents of Airlangga back to Bali, carrying his mask as the symbol of unity of the archipelago, and as a representation of himself. He believed the people of Bali would accept these descendents as their leaders, because they were of its Kings,” says Djelantik, whose family still lives in the palace believed to have been built by in the 14th century with this returning wave of Balinese royalty.
For the past 600 years, the Gajah Mada mask has been protected and brought to life every couple of years to unite and harmonize the world, according to both Djelantik and the man who wears the mask during the Gajah Mada mask dance, Ida Bagus Made Arjawa.
“The dance also symbolizes Pancasila, the Indonesian idea of unity in diversity first put forward during the Majapahit reign,” says Ardawa.
Gajah Mada’s magical mask was recently carried in its sacred box through crowds of Balinese celebrating the Pule Mas Grebuk Aksara festival, held just once each 50 years.
“That festival is to bring maturity to the society; to help it make decisions on its future with an adult viewpoint, not just rushing at things, but taking the time to really examine them,” says Arjawa who danced the Gajah Mada mask dance during the festivities.
In his daily life, Ida Bagus Made Arjawa is a bamboo furniture craftsman, but when the spirit calls he transforms into Gajah Mada, the hero of Indonesian unity.
“I am the only one allowed to do this dance in Bali — only one person can be the dancer in a given period, and they are given this right only by the King of Blahbatuh. They must be called to do this dance,” says Arjawa.
Being chosen to perform the Gajah Mada mask dance carries with it great responsibility, says Arjawa, who explains he was called by God and the King to undertake the role that demanded many religious rituals before he could begin.
“I was given the right to dance this first from God and then I was chosen by the King. Following this, we held a Pawitenan — a religious ceremony of purification from all evil,” says Arjawa.
The 600 year old Gajah Mada mask is alive with magic and great power, explains Arjawa and this demands total focus when performing. “This has been performed for the past 600 years, since the era of the Majapahit Empire. This has been an unbroken line for all those centuries,” says Arjawa.
Down the centuries the power of the mask has grown, he adds, and it is now capable of transformation.
“If the dancer is big, then the mask expands, if the dancer is small it grows smaller. It can magically adjust to fit the wearer,” says Arjawa.
This notion of the mask’s transformative powers is seconded by Djelantik who says he is aware it changes color, going from a rich yellow through to fiery red.
“This Gajah Mada mask dance is not like other dances; this is very special and has no set movements. I must feel my way through the dance, which is never twice the same,” said Arjawa who also trained as a dancer studying wayang (shadow pupet show), topeng (mask), arja and prembon dance.
In the past, the sacred Gajah Mada mask was intended to bring peace to Bali. Today, says Arjawa, the mask dance is performed to bring harmony to the world.
So sacred is this relic, he adds, that it may not be photographed or studied outside of its role in the dance.
“If it is photographed and put in a newspaper and that newspaper is thrown on the floor or crumpled, it would be an insult to the mask of Gajah Mada. Or if people were allowed to see it at any time, they would grow bored with it. Because it is so rarely seen it is always exciting and rare for the people. They can never remember just what the mask looks like so it maintains its magic, its sacredness,” says Arjawa.
The mask of Gajah Mada will again come to life on June 26 during temple festivities in Blahbatuh.
In the past, the sacred Gajah Mada mask was intended to bring peace to Bali. Today, says Arjawa, the mask dance is performed to bring harmony to the world.
— Photos by JP/J.B.Djwan
