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Biyan: Staying true to the thing he loves most ' fashion
Starting out from his simple garage, renowned designer Biyan Wanaatmadjaâs commitment over the past three decades in the thing he loves most â fashion â has made him the man he is today
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Starting out from his simple garage, renowned designer Biyan Wanaatmadja's commitment over the past three decades in the thing he loves most ' fashion ' has made him the man he is today.
In the comfort of his office in South Jakarta, Biyan recalled that his decision to take up fashion came two years after studying architecture in Germany 35 years ago.
'Being away from home at that time gave me a chance to really get to know myself,' said the designer in a laid back interview on Wednesday.
He was aware that both architecture and fashion center on creativity and design, but for him fashion is livelier and the process is very complex. He set his mind on taking a two-year fashion technical course at the Muller & Sohn Privatmodeschule, Dusseldorf in Germany before continuing his study at the London College of Fashion in England, where he graduated in 1983.
In London, he recalled one of his memorable fashion moments, which marked one of the defining chapters on his career path.
At that time, he felt frustrated that his design sketches were not as good as his colleagues and talked to his mentor about the problem.
'And my mentor said, 'every person has his or her individual personality, which would distinguish his or her creations from others',' Biyan recalled.
From then on, he knew that to become a good designer he had to believe in himself.
'I needed to develop my own character and style by always being honest and open with myself,' he said.
Thirty years after returning home and starting his fashion business, he has not only become one of the country's most respected fashion designers but is also known for his brilliant skills in creating collections, which possess modern and international appeal.
Every line he has created ' from the eponymous BIYAN; Studio 133; (X)S,M,L; and Biyan Bride ' are fabulous examples, showing there are no limits, not even geography, to one's creativity in delivering attractive and quality pieces.
It is one of the reasons for keeping his fashion headquarters in Jakarta, where he works with his team and gives his best to his ardent supporters.
'At the end of the day, everyone is same everywhere. The only difference is how you give yourself to something that you have committed to,' he says on how he operates his well-established labels.
Since last year, the BIYAN line has been available in many luxurious upscale retailers and exclusive boutiques worldwide, from Bergdorf Goodman, Joyce, Club 21, Blake, Saks Fifth Avenue Dubai to the online premium retailer, Net-A-Porter.
Following the designers-retail collaboration trend, he also seized the chance to work with the newly opened Galeries Lafayette in Jakarta.
'Being a fashion designer is a constant process. In fact, we're more active than ever now, due to a lot of interest coming from overseas, which I regard as our new homework,' said Biyan, who finds that one of the most effective ways to absorb the latest fashion trends is by experiencing real moments in world cities, mainly in the fashion capitals.
He is proud of Indonesians' exceptional talents in craftsmanship ' their innate skills to construct beautiful intricate crafts and quickly adopt new techniques.
Biyan's profound interest in authentic Indonesian handcrafting techniques, such as batik, weaving and embroidering, also showcase his effort to preserve them for generations to come.
'These handcrafting traditions have been around for hundreds of years and in my opinion, it's our duty to keep this heritage alive for future generations,' said Biyan, who is renowned for his captivating embroidery and exquisite beading techniques.
'And what I've being doing is transforming them into exquisite creations that can relate to today's modern life.'
For Biyan, any clothing he designs, no matter how beautiful, delicate or glamorous, should function as a supporting element for the one wearing it. 'The person should wear the clothes and not the other way around,' he says.
It is with this belief that he is able to maintain a constant dialog with his ever-expanding list of clientele, while allowing him to perfect his artistry.
He said it is always fascinating for him to observe how customers flaunt his creations, as each exudes a distinct personality.
'By interacting with them personally, and knowing how they wear my clothes, I can learn whether I have done the right thing or if there's something I need to improve in my designs. Either way, my clients always motivate me to be a better designer.'
Despite his reputation, he never expects his clientele to wear his creations from head to toe. Instead, he always designs some multifunctional separate pieces, allowing his customers to mix and match his creations with other clothes in their wardrobe.
Living in a modern society, he said more people spend their time outside their homes due to increased work and social activities.
'So, it's important for me to create versatile pieces that can be worn on different occasions ' casual or formal events. For me, that's modern thinking.'
His achievements did not come overnight and he feels blessed for the support he was given and expressed his gratitude for God's blessing, referring to his close relationship with God as one of the things that keeps him grounded and balanced.
'My job involves a high level of emotion and stress. If I'm not careful, it can drive me to become self-centered,' he says.
At the start of his career, he did not expect he could survive such extensive and challenging work in the fashion world, but after three decades he feels fortunate for having a job that he loves dearly.
'I never expected anything at all when I started out designing clothes with two sewing machines in my home garage in the early 80s. I feel privileged I have lasted this long because I understand not everyone can have the same opportunities that I've had,' he said.
'So, even though I love my profession, I want to still be who I am ' a simple and ordinary person whose goal in life is to be unselfish and be useful to society.'
' Photos by Nurhayati
