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Jakarta Post

Cover Story: Selayar islands - “A remarkable adventure to an unspoiled, historical area”

South Sulawesi province is home to abundant natural wonders

WORDS and PHOTOS agung parameswara (The Jakarta Post)
Thu, April 14, 2016 Published on Apr. 14, 2016 Published on 2016-04-14T15:00:15+07:00

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South Sulawesi province is home to abundant natural wonders. One of the most fascinating places in the province, if not in the whole of Indonesia, is the Selayar Islands, which consist of 73 islets.

Situated close to the popular Takabonerate National Marine Park, the Selayar Islands have become a diving haven and are the third largest coral atoll in the world. Measuring approximately 220,000 square kilometers, only Kwajilein in the Marshall Islands and Suvadiva in the Maldives are larger atolls.

The islands’ breathtaking landscape, with rocky hills, caves and unspoiled beaches, has lured tourists to the area, whether they are interested in diving or not.

The islands have a population slightly exceeding 123,000 and rich historical and cultural potential. Taking a short trip to the far-flung hamlet of Gantarang Lalang Bata in Bontomanai district is like a journey into the past. Only around 176 people live in this isolated hamlet.

Old rocky steps have been built under a shady banyan tree and lead to the village’s main entrance, while the centerpiece of the hamlet is the old Awalludin Mosque, built in 1605.

Muhammad Asrul, the hamlet head, said the mosque had been built under the auspices of Datuk Ri Bandang, the founder of the hamlet and the first man to spread the teachings of Islam in the islands.

Old tombs from the Gantarang kingdom surround the mosque.

Historical evidence shows that the Selayar Islands were once part of an old east-west maritime route connecting the Indonesian archipelago with other areas of Southeast Asia.

Evidence of this historical trading route can be shown by the discovery of a local farmer in 1686, who found an ancient bronze Nekara drum in his fields in Papaniohea. It is believed to have originated in North Vietnam in the Southeast Asian Dong Song Bronze Age.

The drum is decorated with flora and fauna, including 16 elephants, 54 birds, 11 betel trees and 18 fish. On top of the drum, there are four frog statues.

Further evidence of historical trading can be found by taking a lepa, or wooden boat, to Gusung islet, around 30 minutes from Benteng, Selayar’s main town. Here, lines of old kopra (processed coconut meat) warehouses that used to be operated by the Dutch colonial administration can still be seen.

In the southern part of Gusung are beautiful beaches and warm, welcoming people. The majority of the locals work as coconut farmers or fishermen.

Back in Benteng, around 7 kilometers from the town center, is the old village of Bitombang, which has 20 sappo langkasa, traditional wooden houses, built on the hilly landscape. The houses are made of rare holasa wood, which can last for hundreds of years.

It’s not just the buildings that are old here, many of the residents are elderly at over 90 years old.

It is a rare, thrilling and exciting trip visiting these hidden islands; the people are friendly and the untouched nature is incredibly beautiful. It is a serene place that has yet to be turned into a busy, profitable tourist destination.

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