The arrival of French cuisine in Jakarta dates to the 19th century, when the city was known as Batavia, and members of the colonial elite societies visited French tailors on Jl. Juanda, close to the site of what would later become the State Palace.

According to historians, the city’s legendary Hotel des Indes was built by a Frenchman, Antoine Surleon Chairlain, while Jakarta’s Hotel de Provence is said to be the first place in Southeast Asia to serve assorted European ice creams and sorbets.

Later came restaurants such as Chez Mario and Maison Veerstag on Jl. Veteran, although both were demolished by the 1950s.

More recently, veteran actress Rima Melati established the city’s first authentic Parisian bistro, Le Bistro on Jl. Wahid Hasyim.

It created a new wave of French restaurant openings, such as Margeux at the Shangri-La, Taman Sari at the Jakarta Hilton International, Riva Park Lane, Srivijaya at the Dharmawangsa and Cassis at Karet Kuningan.

Then there’s Lyon on the second floor of the Mandarin Oriental.

Here I am in the restaurant, looking at its iconic red and blue water glasses on a spotless white tablecloth, a tableaux that reflects the colors of the French flag.

Billing itself as a fine bistro instead as a fine-dining destination, Lyon is one of the finest restaurants in Jakarta for those seeking to indulge in French gourmet cuisine.

The dining room features a low ceiling that creates a comforting ambience. I walked along a velvety carpet before I was seated by a kind servers.

While its dinner and brunch menus are extraordinary, this day I was tempted to try Lyon’s business lunch menu, which includes four courses, from an amuse bouche to dessert.

The amuse bouche arrived and was captivating to look as it was to eat: A trio of seared foie gras, berry and melba bread (a more feminine version of the venerable crouton); silky and delicate corn pannacota served with minced salmon; and a Romesco lettuce mini-salad.

The foie gras was rich, melting in your mouth–as did the pannacota, which instantly dissolved when touching the warmth of the tongue. Fresh salmon added richness and texture to the dish, a clever way to start your meal.

The next dish, a well-executed, simple salad of farm-made brie cheese, truffles, balsamic jelly and crunchy walnuts, shows that excellence need not be sophisticated.

The fresh and beautifully plated garden of fresh frisse and the earthy walnut offered a pristine natural texture, while the creamy Franco-Swiss brie cheese was seductively matched with ponds of truffle crème, with balsamic jelly balsamic for a hint of tangy fruitiness to create a very fine salad.

For a main course, a very humble and nostalgic Lamb Navarin arrived. The peasant dish, which takes its name from the Battle of Navarino, yielded less than the decisive victory won by the Great Powers over the Ottoman Empire in 1827.

While the lamb was executed well, the pearl onion was slightly undercooked, lacking the usual zingy sensation for your nostrils.

Soon, though, a smile returned to my face when the roulade of free-range chicken arrived. Juicy and perfectly cooked, the chicken, served with a satiny smear of potato mousseline and a quenelle of grain mustard, elevated the course to a fine meal.

Finally, the dessert of Arabica parfait, chocolate cream and toasted banana arrived. While I’m no fan of bananas, the combination of earthy Arabica, silky, creamy chocolate and the honey-like sweetness of the banana made for a grand finale.

When I mentioned how much I enjoyed my meal to the server, she told me that chef Thierry, the kitchen captain of Mandarin Oriental, has moved on.

Thierry offered a Midas touch that brought Lyon to fame during his tenure from 2009 to 2015–a touch that can still be felt, despite his departure.

Lyon is still alive and continues to serve excellent cuisine, thanks to standards set by Thierry that have obviously taken root in the kitchen he built.

The Mandarin Oriental’s new executive chef, Cyril Calmet, oversees the hotel’s dining establishments, including Cinnamon all-day dining, the award winning Mandarin Oriental Cake Shop, the MO Bar, the new Xin Hwa Chinese restaurant and Lyon.
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Mandarin Oriental Jakarta

Jl. M.H. Thamrin
Menteng, Central Jakarta
Lunch 11:30 a.m. -2p.m. (Mon - Fri)
Dinner 6 p.m.-10:30 p.m.
Brunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. (Sat)
Telp: +62212993 8824
Instagram: mo_jakarta