Local specialties: Rice (center right) and salt (center left) from Krayan village are arranged among a number of products that have Geographic Indication certification from the government during an event at Potato Head Jakarta restaurant in Pacific Place, South Jakarta.

In a place far, far away in North Kalimantan, farmers in Krayan village proudly produce rice and salt, which are well known in neighboring countries but sadly lesser known in their home country.

Few people in Indonesia are familiar with Krayan village in Nunukan regency. The village is only a two-hour trip from Tarakan, the biggest city in North Kalimantan. With a population of 18,000, it is geographically remote and only accessible by air and foot.

In Malaysia and Brunei Darussalam, Krayan has a big name — long known as a producer of rice and salt of prime quality. They call the products Adan Krayan rice and salt, dubbing the agriculture products as incomparable to those from other regions.

Adan Krayan rice is soft and sweet, which is widely preferred by upper-class families in Malaysia and Brunei, including the royal families. Despite its high price, the natural flavor of the rice and the organic method of cultivation make it a much sought-after commodity together with the village’s mountain salt.

Jen Salang, a representative of the Krayan community, said the village’s close proximity to the Kalimantan-Sarawak border enables many Malaysian traders to purchase Krayan rice and salt.

“Although they [traders] buy the rice at a proper price, they can sell it at a high price because of its exceptional quality,” he said.

Adan Krayan paddy is grown without any chemical fertilizer. The only manure used is the dung of buffalos grazing in paddy fields before the planting period. Apart from that, the soil and water in the local fields contribute to the unique taste of the three kinds of Adan Krayan rice — white, reddish-brown and black.

Krayan mountain salt is also unique and hard to find in other areas. Processed from water springs that contain salt, the end product is fine mountain salt.

“It’s most suitable for cooking vegetables because it won’t spoil their colors,” Jen said.

Its natural taste leaves zero unpleasant flavors in the mouth. Like Adan Krayan rice, this salt is produced in limited quantity due to its long processing method and the area’s few springs.

Krayan has a long history of selling its produce to Malaysia. The news about the appetizing rice also spread to the people of Brunei, who have since also visited the village to buy the commodity.

Overseas traders used to buy rice and salt from residents by using the barter system. Although both sides have been involved in money transactions, residents in Krayan still rely on some basic products supplied by Malaysian traders, who offer lower prices than those in bigger cities in Kalimantan. This dependency on the neighboring country is also a result of poor road infrastructure to big cities and the fact that Kalimantan still depends on other islands to supply a number of basic needs.

Jen wants to sell Krayan’s commodities to cities in Kalimantan and other cities in Indonesia but is afraid the effort will be hampered by high delivery costs and unpopularity of the products.

In Jakarta alone, some people only became aware of the presence of these products when they were displayed at the Geographical Indication Market Place organized in Potato Head Jakarta restaurant in Pacific Place, South Jakarta, recently.

Adan Krayan rice received Geographic Indication certification from the government in 2012, which was aimed at ensuring added value for traditional products and legally protecting them from being imitated.

“Krayan’s rice and salt are unique for being affected by soil, water, air and other factors indigenous to this village,” said Lisa Virgiano of the Geographic Indication Protection Community, which supports several distinctive regional products in Indonesia to obtain Geographic Indication certification.

Certification is also expected to eventually promote the welfare of local people and arouse the younger generation’s interest in artisan weaving and agricultural occupations now being abandoned.

Lisa said it would take time before farmers in Krayan could benefit from the certification by selling their rice at a higher price to Malaysian traders.

“Krayan people’s basic needs are still supplied by Malaysia so they’re afraid more expensive rice and salt will lead to a supply halt. Ways are being sought to enable farmers to earn more from their trade with Malaysians,” added Lisa.

At present, the Indonesian Geographic Indication Protection Community focuses on popularizing Geographic Indication products among broader circles in the country as well as overseas. Krayan rice and salt is available at some big supermarkets in Jakarta.

— Photo by Juliana Harsianti

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