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Celebrating Indonesia and France's shared gastronomic history
Indonesia can draw lessons from France regarding the management of food resources as ingredients to enhance the global perception of Indonesian gastronomy.
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Indonesian flavor: Starting as a catering business in 2010, Djawa opened its doors in 2012 and has since expanded to five locations in the Paris city center. (Courtesy of Ubud Food Festival/-)
T
he visit of French President Emmanuel Macron to Indonesia this week was part of the commemoration of the 75th anniversary of diplomatic relations between the two nations. Nevertheless, the historical ties between them have existed for a considerable period.
Regrettably, the historical account of this relationship is not extensively covered in Indonesian national historiography, including the history curriculum in elementary education, which tends to focus more on Dutch influences.
Despite its limitations, the focus of French historians on Indonesia plays a crucial role in comprehending Indonesian history through the lens of French sources.
Denys Lombard, in his three-volume work Le Carrefour Javanais (translated into Indonesian as Nusa Jawa Silang Budaya), along with Bernard Dorléans, in Les Français et l’Indonésie du XVIé au XXé siécle (translated into Indonesian as Orang Indonesia dan Orang Prancis dari Abad XVI hingga Abad XX), reveal numerous concealed French influences in Indonesia.
The historical relationship between Indonesia and France, although less prominent than that of Dutch colonial influence, offers a fascinating lens into cultural exchanges, particularly in gastronomy and dining etiquette. During the colonial era, French culinary traditions began to subtly permeate Indonesian society, primarily through the Dutch elite who were influenced by French culture.
French dining etiquette, with its emphasis on structured courses, refined table manners and the fine dining art contrasts sharply with the informal prasmanan (buffet-style) tradition of Indonesia. This cultural interplay created a unique hybridity in dining practices among the Indonesian elite, who adopted elements of French etiquette as a symbol of sophistication and modernity.
In the postcolonial period, this influence evolved further as Indonesia sought to redefine its national identity while retaining traces of colonial heritage. French gastronomy continued to shape high-end dining experiences in urban centers, blending with local traditions to create a distinct culinary identity.
