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Fashion designer Thierry Mugler dies aged 73
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In memoriam: French fashion designer Thierry Mugler speaks on Feb. 26, 2019 during the presentation his exhibition “Couturissime” at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts. (AFP/Martin Oullette-Diotte)
F
rench designer Thierry Mugler, who reigned over fashion in the 1980s and was as famous for his fantastical couture as for his blockbuster fashion shows, died on Sunday. He was 73.
Mugler's daring collections came to define the decade's “power dress”, his designs noted for their structured and sophisticated silhouettes, showcased by his extravagant shows.
"I always thought that fashion was not enough on its own and that it had to be shown in its musical and theatrical environment," he once said.
In later years, he dressed Beyoncé and Lady Gaga, and came out of retirement in 2019 to create Kim Kardashian's Met Gala look.
"We are devastated to announce the passing of Mr. Manfred Thierry Mugler on Sunday, January 23, 2022," said a post on the designer's official Facebook account.
His agent Jean-Baptiste Rougeot, who said the designer had died of "natural causes", added that Mugler had been due to announce new collaborations early this week.
Showman at heart
Born in Strasbourg in December 1948, as a young teen Mugler joined the Opera national du Rhin’s ballet company before studying at the School of Decorative Arts.
From a young age he created his own clothes, adapting items bought at nearby flea markets. He moved to Paris aged 20, initially to work with another ballet company, but was more successful with his own wardrobe.
Mugler soon became a freelance stylist and worked for various fashion houses in Paris, London and Milan.
In 1973, he took the plunge and created his own label Café de Paris before founding Thierry Mugler a year later.
His designs exacerbated and celebrated women's forms: shoulders accentuated by padding, plunging necklines, constricted waists and rounded hips.
"Dancing taught me a lot about posture, the organization of clothing, the importance of the shoulders, the head carriage, the play and rhythm of the legs," said Mugler.
A showman at heart, he organized spectacular presentations of his creations pioneering the modern spectacle of the 21st century fashion show.
"Today's fashion shows are a continuation of what Mugler invented. The collections were pretexts for fashion shows," recalled Didier Grumbach, former CEO of Thierry Mugler.
He had showmanship in his blood. For the 10th anniversary of his label in 1984, he organized the first public fashion show in Europe, with 6,000 attending the rock concert-like show.
But nothing compared to the 20th anniversary celebration in 1995, staged at the Cirque d'Hiver.
Models including Jerry Hall, Naomi Campbell, Eva Herzigova and Kate Moss paraded alongside stars such as Tippi Hedren and Julie Newmar, with the spectacle culminating in a performance from James Brown.
Later years
The 1992 launch of his company's first perfume, Angel, in collaboration with Clarins, which acquired a stake in the company before taking control in 1997, was a runaway success.
Clarins shuttered Thierry Mugler ready-to-wear in 2003, a year after the designer reportedly left the brand, but continued the scent business, with Angel rivaling Chanel's No. 5 for the top spot in sales.
Renowned for his work with celebrities, he counted Grace Jones and Hall among his muses, and had a long-running creative collaboration with David Bowie, even dressing him for his wedding to Iman.
Despite seemingly retiring from fashion's frontlines in the early 2000s, Mugler continued to impact culture and worked with Beyonce on her “I am...” world tour.
In later years, the designer suffered a series of accidents requiring facial surgery, and rebuilt his body with intensive bodybuilding while engaging in meditation and yoga.
