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To the soul: Japan’s Kodo reinvents ‘taiko’ tradition

Sara Hussein (Agence France-Presse)
Sado, Japan
Sun, May 22, 2022

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To the soul: Japan’s Kodo reinvents ‘taiko’ tradition Power and sound: Performers of Kodo, including Hana Ogawa (center), perform on May 7 on Sado Island in western Japan. (AFP/Charly Triballeau)

J

i>Japanese taiko drumming is a musical form rooted in religious rituals, traditional theater and the joyous abandon of seasonal festivals called matsuri.

In a hall on Japan's Sado Island, 71-year-old Yoshikazu Fujimoto strikes the imposing drum mounted before him, producing a boom so powerful that it reverberates through the floorboards.

Fujimoto is a veteran performer of Japanese taiko, a musical form with roots in religious rituals, traditional theater and the joyous abandon of seasonal festivals called matsuri.

But for all its ancient pedigree, taiko as a stage performance is a fairly modern invention, developed by a jazz musician and popularized in part by one of Japan's most famous troupes, Kodo which hails from Sado.

Fujimoto is the eldest of the 37 musicians that make up the group, which recruits members through a rigorous two-year training program. It was founded partly to attract people to Sado Island off Japan's west coast and tours internationally, spreading the gospel of taiko.

"Taiko itself is like a prayer," said Fujimoto, who came to Sado in 1972 to join the group that evolved into Kodo. "It used to be said that the area reached by the sound of a drum made up a single community.

Big boom: Japanese taiko performer Yoshikazu Fujimoto of Kodo warms up on May 7 before a performance on Sado Island, where he helped found the internationally renowned drumming troupe.
Big boom: Japanese taiko performer Yoshikazu Fujimoto of Kodo warms up on May 7 before a performance on Sado Island, where he helped found the internationally renowned drumming troupe. (AFP/Charly Triballeau)

"Through taiko [...] I want to become part of a community with the audience and send a message of living together, a message of compassion."

It has been a lifelong project for Fujimoto, who is a specialist performer of the o-daiko, an enormous single drum mounted on a stand and is struck by a musician standing with his back to the audience and arms raised overhead. The effect is an all-encompassing wall of sound that seems to enter the rib cage and vibrate through its bones. almost

And it is highly physical, with Fujimoto grunting in exertion as the muscles in his bare back flex beneath the straps of his tunic with every strike.

'One with the sound'

"I become one with the sound," he said. "Playing taiko makes me feel like I'm alive."

Kodo's performances range from the somber power of the o-daiko solo to ensemble pieces featuring flute and vocals, and even comic interludes that encourage audience participation.

Taiko simply means drum in Japanese, and performers use two main types. One is made from a single, hollowed tree trunk with cowhide or horsehide nailed over each end. The other uses hide stretched over rings attached to a wooden body with rope. They have been part of rituals and theatrical art forms like noh and kabuki for centuries.

But drumming in those contexts is often a solemn practice, while modern taiko performance is closer to folk festivals, during which troupes often made up of local residents play in the streets or fields to unite the community, drive away malign influences or pray for a good harvest.

Manual craft: Craftspeople renovate a Japanese taiko on April 26 at the Miyamoto Unosuke workshop in Tokyo.
Manual craft: Craftspeople renovate a Japanese taiko on April 26 at the Miyamoto Unosuke workshop in Tokyo. (AFP/Charly Triballeau)

"Contemporary taiko drumming took a lot of inspiration from this local festival drumming and combined with more formal traditional performing arts to evolve into what we see as taiko drumming today," explained Yoshihiko Miyamoto, whose company Miyamoto Unosuke has made taiko for over 160 years.

Key to that evolution was jazz drummer Daihachi Oguchi, who moved festival drumming to the stage in the 1950s and 60s.

Then in 1969, musician Den Tagayasu moved to Sado to found a taiko troupe that he hoped would attract young people to the island and revitalize it.

'Straight to your soul'

Fujimoto left his native Kyoto to join the group known as Ondekoza, and when it split up, he stayed and helped found Kodo.

Joining now involves an arduous two-year training program, in which apprentices aged 18-25 live in dorms without phones or televisions.

Veteran vitality: Originally from Kyoyo, 71-year-old performer Yoshikazu Fujimoto, who specializes in performing the o-daiko and helped found Kodo, poses after a performance on May 7 on Sado Island.
Veteran vitality: Originally from Kyoyo, 71-year-old performer Yoshikazu Fujimoto, who specializes in performing the o-daiko and helped found Kodo, poses after a performance on May 7 on Sado Island. (AFP/Charly Triballeau)

"The day starts at 5 a.m., when we get up and immediately go out to stretch. Then we start cleaning and polishing the floors," said Hana Ogawa, a 20-year-old who completed the trainee program this year.

After cleaning, the trainees go for a run and then spend the entire day practicing, taking breaks only for food. They have one day off a week.

It might not be for everyone, but Ogawa, who decided to join Kodo after seeing the group perform in high school, has no regrets.

"I'm happy every day, because I love taiko and I pursued this one goal and achieved it, so it's a dream come true," she told AFP.

Taiko has been growing in popularity at home and abroad in recent years, with troupes established in Europe and the United States and a steady rise in overseas orders for Miyamoto's store.

"Taiko has the power to connect people with its sound," he said. 

"Especially in this contemporary age, you hear the sound of machines everywhere, but taiko uses this rawhide and the drum bodies [are] made of wood," he added.

"It's like the sound of nature, it's very organic. I think that's one of the reasons it comes straight to your soul."

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