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Indonesian modest wear: From New York Fashion Week to the world
The Trade Ministry brings seven Indonesian modest-wear brands to New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2023.
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Indonesian identity: A Songket dress designed by Lenny Hartono is worn by a model for New York Fashion Week.(JP/Sylviana Hamdani) (JP/Sylviana Hamdani)
T
o pave the way for Indonesia to become the world’s modest fashion center, the Trade Ministry will bring seven of the country’s modest-wear brands to New York Fashion Week (NYFW) Fall/Winter 2023.
As scheduled on the event’s official agenda, AM by Anggiasari, Ayu Dyah Andari, Buttonscarves, KAMI, Lenny Hartono, Nada Puspita and Zeta Privé will be presenting their autumn/winter collections in a fashion show themed Indonesia Now at Spring Studios, New York, on Feb. 13.
The Trade Ministry has selected these brands based on their potential and readiness to go international.
“These young designers have lots of potential, but it will take a lot of time and effort for them to be able to make it in the international fashion markets on their own,” Minister of Trade Zulkifli Hasan said in a press conference at the auditorium of the Trade Ministry, Central Jakarta, on Jan. 31. “That’s why the Trade Ministry has agreed to support and facilitate them in entering prestigious international fashion scenes, including New York Fashion Week.”
According to the minister, the NYFW is especially important for Indonesian designers as the United States is currently the country’s leading export destination.
“The US is currently [Indonesia’s] number one export destination,” Zulkifli said. “They have a large population that is mostly affluent. New York is also one of the world’s fashion capitals.”
In 2021, Indonesia exported a total value of US$8.5 million to the US. Almost half of the amount came from the country’s fashion and garment industry.
By November 2022, Indonesia’s exports to the US jumped to $8.8 million.
Changing the game
The seven designers scheduled to present their collections in NYFW Fall/Winter 2023 seem very excited.
“All these years, Indonesia has always been the production site of many global fashion brands,” Anggiasari Mawardi, founder and creative director of AM by Anggiasari, said. “It’s about time we change the game and introduce our fashion brands to the world.”
In NYFW Fall/Winter 2023, AM by Anggiasari will present a sustainable modest fashion collection themed Komorebi, which means sunlight piercing through the leaves in Japanese.
“The collection is mainly made of discarded denim and cotton fabrics adorned with batik, eco print and shibori techniques,” Anggiasari said.
The Bandung-based designer is confident that Indonesian brands can be internationally renowned.
“Those big global brands that we know now used to be small-time local ones,” Anggiasari said. “Thanks to their government’s support, they have become internationally renowned. I believe that Indonesian brands, with full support from the government and the industry can also go global.”
Linda Anggrea, creative director of Buttonscarves, also believes that Indonesia’s participation in the NYFW will help raise awareness of the country’s fashion brands.
“Many people abroad still think Indonesia only exports spices,” Linda said. “But hopefully, through our participation in the NYFW, they will also recognize our excellent fashion products.”
In New York, Buttonscarves will present a collection themed The Dream Capsule, consisting of classic shirts and blouses with puffed sleeves, shirt dresses embellished with lace and tailored coats and blazers made of jacquard.
The land of opportunities
The designers also see a lot of opportunities in the US market for their modest-wear brands.
“I often visit my sister, who lives in the US, and notice that their Muslim population is multiplying,” Trisha Chas, founder and creative director of Zeta Privé, said. “It’s a great opportunity for Indonesian modest-wear brands.”
And it appears that the US modest-wear industry has not been able to catch up with the growth of its Muslim population.
“The US modest fashion industry is a lot like Indonesia 20 years ago,” Nadya Karina, creative director of KAMI, said.
While Indonesia has a wealth of modest-wear brands offering many different items in a rich combination of materials to suit various weather conditions, Muslim women in the US must be creative in putting together things from regular ready-to-wear brands.
“They’re still lacking modest-wear items made with the right materials,” Nadya added. “Therefore, they just buy from what’s readily available in the market and layer up.”
KAMI will showcase a collection themed Caraka, which means traveler in Sanskrit, in New York next week. This autumn/winter collection, featuring the iconic ladder-like motif of Lampung’s traditional handwoven fabric, tapis, consists of quilted outers, padded jackets and padded pants to suit the season.
Indah Nada Puspita, founder and creative director of Nada Puspita, also has a similar opinion about the modest-wear industry in the US.
“Generally, there aren’t many choices for modest-wear in the US,” Indah said. “Muslim women have to buy from the regular brands and do their own mix-and-match.”
Indah first attended the NYFW in 2016 as a fashion blogger. Since then she has kept her fingers on the pulse of the US fashion industry.
“I believe it’s a great opportunity for us to be able to present our collections in the NYFW now and showcase Indonesia’s wide variety of modest-wear collections,” Indah said.
In NYFW Fall/Winter 2023, Indah Nada Puspita will showcase a modest-wear collection themed A Breath of Modesty, which comprises shirt-dresses, wide-legged trousers, flared skirts, cardigans and statement gowns in pink, warm neutrals and midnight blue. Made of organza, sateen and tulle, many of these items are adorned with pleats and ruffles to exude feminine charms.
Coming prepared
All the Indonesian designers participating in NYFW Fall/Winter 2023 have done their homework and thoroughly researched the US market. They have also tailored their collections according to the market’s preferences.
“New Yorkers want to look chic and elegant without any hassles,” Trisha Chas, founder and creative director of Zeta Privé, said. “Therefore, I’ve designed a collection of easy-to-wear pieces neatly embellished with beads and sequins.”
Meanwhile, Ayu Dyah Andari has teamed up with Batik Trusmi for the NYFW to present a modest-wear collection featuring loose-fitted dresses made of hand-drawn batik in bold hues of fuchsia, deep purple and lime.
“[The collection] is quite a departure from my usual soft pastel signature,” Ayu said. “According to our team’s research, the US market adores expressive and maximalist styles. Therefore, I’ve designed the collection in such fashion.”
Penetrating the US market
All the collections by these Indonesian modest-wear brands will also be featured in the NYFW pop-up store on Feb. 13-14.
“Since it’s a new market penetration for us, we currently don’t have any target sales [for the pop-up store],” Ayu Dyah Andari said. “We’ll see which items will be well-received by the American market.”
Does Ayu have any plans to set up a store in the US?
“We have plans [of setting up a store in the US],” Ayu replied. “But of course, it has to be done very carefully with the right target market.”
Indah Nada Puspita, who has a similar plan, also treads lightly on the subject.
“[Opening a store in the US] is not something far away from us now,” Indah said. “But I think the process will take a lot of time. Opening a store in one of the shopping malls in Indonesia takes a lot of time. I think, first of all, we have to make the [US market] believe in our products.”
Buttonscarves has already made a strategy to win the US market.
“Before opening a store in the US, I think we need to have a strong following,” Linda Anggrea, creative director of Buttonscarves, said. “So, for the first step, we’ve already invited several department stores [in the US] to see our products during the NYFW. Hopefully, we can convince them to carry our products in their stores.”
According to Linda, three US department stores, including Macy’s, have confirmed to meet them next week during the NYFW.
Gateway to the rest of the world
Zulkifli Hasan was very impressed with the looks of the modest wear brands in a fashion show held after the press conference at the Trade Ministry on Jan. 31.
“Seeing their designs, I’m sure that Indonesia has a great future in the fashion industry,” the minister said. “And I promise that after the NYFW, we’ll bring more Indonesian designers to London Fashion Week and a trade show in Paris.”
“New York, London and Paris are gateways to the global fashion market,” the minister added. “After gaining recognition in these [fashion] capitals, it will be a lot easier for [Indonesian brands] to penetrate the market in Central Asia, South Asia, Middle East and Africa.”
