The usual suspects of Paris, Milan, New York and London are the industry’s perpetual focal points, but the rise of street fashion and streetwear has increasingly turned heads to the literal streets.

Japan, arguably one of streetwear’s premier destinations, has carved out its own niche of sartorial flavor, with a distinctly Japanese aesthetic that is often replicated and duplicated.

Still, Japan does occasionally look to other places.

On a warm Saturday afternoon, The Jakarta Post had the chance to sit down with Ryo Ishikawa, an icon of Japanese streetwear who is the proprietor of #FR2 and VANQUISH brands.

Dressed head to toe in #FR2, Ryo-san was in town to attend the IDBYTE 2023 conference, where he spoke of the interplay between culture and style as a dynamic force that drives designers to craft unique narratives through clothing brands, including his own.

"Incorporating local elements into design is, in my view, of great importance. Items that are exclusive to a particular location, and can only be obtained by visiting there, tend to hold higher value compared with easily accessible online purchases," he said through an interpreter.

Intriguingly, Ishikawa revealed how he personally embodies this philosophy in his work. "When I've had the opportunity to visit a location, I've designed limited-edition items that can be acquired there," he shared. This exclusivity, he continued, adds a layer of significance and allure to the clothing, creating a bond between the wearer and the place.

A striking example of this principle in action is #FR2, which operates as a concept store tailored to the unique characteristics of each region in Japan. In these regional stores, customers can purchase products that are exclusive to that specific area.

"In terms of design," he added, "we've added elements that reflect the distinctive regional characteristics and have incorporated various Japanese elements, such as Japanese prints and Chinese characters, into our designs."

Maintaining creative flow

As a designer, creativity is the lifeblood of the craft. Asked how he keeps the inspiration flowing while designing new collections for #FR2 and VANQUISH, his reply delved into the essence of captivating design.

"To capture attention effectively, it's crucial to embed a visually captivating design message," he explained.

"The central principle is to infuse both the market and customers with a sense of enthusiasm through compelling visual elements." This focus on visual storytelling drives his commitment to collaborating with diverse global artists, even if it may not always be the most profitable route.

"We are continuously on the lookout for talented and diverse global artists or designers."

Staying relevant in ever-evolving fashion trends

Fashion is a field where trends evolve rapidly, making it essential for brands to remain relevant. Ishikawa explained how this creative force managed to keep his brands in tune with the changing tastes of consumers.

He emphasized the significance of establishing a distinct identity while considering who will resonate with it. "Who exactly is our target customer?" he mused. "It's imperative to vigilantly observe the nature of our communication with our customers." He noted that sometimes, designers might become engrossed in their own concepts and ideas, inadvertently overlooking their customers.

However, he firmly believes that the primary goal should always be the continuous creation of innovative offerings that excite and engage customers.

Collaboration with compass: A cross-cultural fusion

The conversation also led to the topic of collaboration, a hallmark of the contemporary fashion landscape. In particular, collaboration with the Indonesian footwear brand Compass under his #FR2 label struck a particular note, given the novelty factor as well as the hype surrounding the drop.

"It was back in 2019 when our relationship with Compass started," he recalled. "At the USS event back then, I noticed Aji, designer of Compass, wearing #FR2 and spoke to him, sparking a conversation that led to our series collaboration."

The collaboration's incredible success was witnessed by crowds of Indonesian fans queuing up in Tokyo, a sight so astonishing that even the local police were baffled. Ishikawa's ability to connect with his audience on a global scale was mind-blowing, to put it lightly.

The first collaboration started in November 2020, and the latter collaboration launched in January 2023. In a world where the fashion elite usually flock to Paris Fashion Week, Ishikawa and his team made a deliberate choice to travel to Jakarta to meet with Indonesian fashion enthusiasts, underlining the global reach and open-mindedness of the brand and its commitment to exploring diverse influences.

Sitting across from the fashion industry maverick, one could not help but wonder about the influences that have shaped his own style. What did he wear growing up? Was it Vuitton or the indie scene that drew him in?

Surprisingly, the answer was refreshingly unique. Ishikawa confessed to not having specific fashion heroes during his formative years.

Instead, he emphasized his individuality and the absence of a conventional fashion influence. "I have my own way to grow my style," he shared, citing the importance of embracing one's uniqueness.

The conversation then shifted to a different dimension, beyond fashion, particularly the notion that inspiration for his creations came from sources outside the fashion world.

The response was unexpected, but profoundly enlightening. His inspiration came not from the fashion industry but from external sources. An ongoing project involving a gas station was mentioned, symbolizing his constant quest to innovate and create something unprecedented. It was a reminder that true innovation often occurs at the intersection of different fields.

Delving deeper into the conversation, the story behind the creation of two iconic brands, #FR2 and VANQUISH, was revealed. The journey began in Tokyo, with a pivotal shift from the Harajuku fashion movement to the emerging trends in Shibuya.

Ishikawa recognized that the younger generation in Shibuya was sparking a new movement, distinct from the popular Harajuku scene. This led to the birth of the VANQUISH brand, a testament to his ability to adapt and evolve with the changing times, a stark contrast to traditional fashion icons.

Intriguingly, Ishikawa's unique approach extended beyond the fashion landscape. Instead of idolizing figures within the industry, he was more attuned to market dynamics and the pulse of his audience. This approach was reflected in the way he identified opportunities and nurtured emerging trends, marking a significant departure from the conventional industry practice.

The discussion turned to the challenges of establishing and growing his brands. In the unpredictable world of fashion, success is often followed by periods of obscurity.

Ishikawa shared his philosophy of focusing on the market and understanding his audience's desires to bridge the gap. This approach, rather than blindly following trends, emphasizes the importance of connecting with the market and maintaining his brand's identity.

He also stressed the crucial balance between individuality and understanding the customer, highlighting the importance of maintaining a strong personal identity while also comprehending how customers would utilize his products to communicate with others.

In the world of fashion, where creativity meets commerce and the industry often celebrating icons, the interview revealed that sometimes it is those who defy convention and forge their own path who leave the most indelible mark.

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