Cindy Julia Tobing

Contributor/Jakarta

The Indonesian gastronomy scene is joyous and hopeful at the moment, and adding to the momentum is Wonderful Indonesia Gourmet (WIG), an initiative from the Tourism Ministry to place the country on the global gastronomy map.

From The Weekender

Living with borrowed certainty: A Gen Z reflection on the climate of our times

When dry roads feel like a gift, what kind of future are we really holding on to?

Read on The Weekender

Launched in late September in Jakarta and Bali through a week of events from gourmet tours and artisan markets to restaurant collaborations and talks, WIG connected international media and tastemakers with chefs, artisan producers and culinary practitioners across the country.

The timing feels right. In recent years, Indonesia’s culinary landscape has been reinvigorated by globally trained chefs, a renewed focus on local ingredients and creative documentation of the archipelago’s culinary stories.

Some of these efforts are gaining international attention: Locavore NXT in Ubud has been recognized for its sustainability ethos, while August Jakarta remains the only Indonesian restaurant included among the prestigious Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.

So why does this moment feel like a long time coming, and what needs to happen next?

‘Accessibility and trust’

WIG 2025 committee lead Kevindra Soemantri, who is also a food writer, has long believed in the power of exposure through culinary festivals and events.

According to him, the initiative aligns with the ministry’s broader agenda to elevate Indonesian gastronomy and attract quality tourists, with hopes of establishing WIG as a flagship annual program akin to the United Kingdom’s Taste of London or Hong Kong’s Wine & Dine Festival.

“During the pilot’s launch, many international guests were pleasantly surprised at what Jakarta had to offer, because they arrived with little expectation. That’s why we started with gourmet first, to build a sense of accessibility and trust,” Kevindra says, adding that the timing could not be better.

“Globally, Southeast Asia is also being seen as the new dining hot spot, and I think hyper-regional cuisine is the next big thing. Indonesia, with our many distinct regional cuisines, is well-positioned for this,” he says.

While some may see WIG as a parade of trophy restaurants, Kevindra describes the program as the beginning of a more strategic and inclusive era.

“We want to show that Indonesian gastronomy is not just about restaurants. Our artisan producers are also ready for the global stage,” he says.

Plans for the next edition include delving into cities such as Yogyakarta and Surakarta, further exploring heritage dishes and collaborative exchanges.

“We also hope that WIG becomes a platform that uplifts the intellectuals behind Indonesian gastronomy – the historians, the anthropologists, the ethnographers, the writers – because that’s the way we can grow together,” says Kevindra.

Treading carefully

Food has long been part of Indonesia’s cultural conversation, from Mustika Rasa, the 1960s cookbook commissioned by President Sukarno to more recent works such as Rijsttafel by food researcher Fadly Rahman and the archival projects of the Nusa Gastronomy Foundation.

Yet these efforts remain fragmented, driven by individual scholars, embassies and collectives, instead of as a national strategy, so initiatives like WIG could provide a more cohesive structure.

Hardian Eko “Seto” Nurseto, a food anthropologist and cofounder of culinary research collective Parti Gastronomi, also notes the lack of a unified direction.

“We still don’t have an overarching framework, a clear vision for what we want to promote through gastronomy and why,” he says, referring to Indonesia’s relatively nebulous global visibility.

While he welcomes government initiatives that work in tandem with industry efforts, Seto hopes the movement will inspire a more thoughtful and well-rounded approach.

“Any effort to introduce Indonesian cuisine is always good, but when food becomes part of tourism, it risks standardization,” he says.

“We should aim to balance the pursuit of global standards without losing sight of our own culinary stories and wisdom.”

Progressive vision

For chefs and writers who have gained cross-border renown, global recognition is more than validation: It is also a chance to expand an understanding of Indonesia through food.

For Hans Christian, the chef-owner of August Jakarta who was recently recognized in The Best Chef Awards 2025, the acknowledgement extends beyond personal success to national pride.

He admits that visibility remains a challenge.

“Often it feels like we, as chefs, are building the foundation and the stage at the same time,” says Hans.

“But I’m hopeful because I’m seeing more [of a] collective effort. In the future, official organizations can connect chefs, producers and educators so that our food is understood globally.

“Even small steps, like smoother visa processes or easier import access to ingredients for use in international collaborations, can make a huge difference,” he says.

Looking ahead, how should Indonesian gastronomy be developed in ways that feel organic and globally relevant?

Patricia Tanumihardja, an author based in Washington, DC, who is known for the Mortar and Pestle cookbook of classic Indonesian recipes, underlines the value in storytelling and everyday advocacy.

“While the Indonesian diaspora is not large, I still believe that we have many stories to share,” she says, noting the limited number of Indonesian restaurants abroad.

According to a Foreign Ministry survey, only 1,221 such eateries were open across the globe as of late 2024.

“It would be a good idea to harness the power of the diaspora to spread the word. They have local connections and can build awareness at the grassroots level. Perhaps appoint food ambassadors to facilitate?” she suggests.

Patricia is currently collaborating with Leiden University, as well as Indonesian chefs and cookbook authors across Europe and the United States, to highlight the global evolution of the country’s cuisines.

“I believe cross-country collaborations like this will be instrumental,” she says.

“Everyone is attracted to a story, so tell the stories of the tempeh maker at the market, the farmers who produce gula merah [palm sugar], and weave in aspects of our culture that are already familiar to global audiences.

“There’s no one way to achieve this goal. We need a well-thought-out, multi-pronged effort.”

Popular

Lots of clicks, few arrivals as ‘New Bali’ dream hits snag

Indonesia welcomes first panda born in the country

Why Indonesian travelers choose Malaysia Airlines for their next journey