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Papua Forest Feast brings hope in a time of crisis
Seniman Pangan and Papuan chef Charles Toto host a feast of Papuan soul food that speaks not only to the palate but also to the heart.
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Yum yam: Cubed mashed yams with grated pumpkin on top is the perfect accompaniment to 'ikan kuah kuning' (yellow fish gravy). (JP/Tertiani ZB Simanjuntak)
T
he humble ingredients from the forests of Papua were turned into a delicate four-course meal fit to be served in a fine-dining restaurant.
The soupy ikan kuah kuning (fish with turmeric-based soup) served in a pumpkin shell started the Papua Forest Feast at Javara Culture Café in Kemang, South Jakarta, on Aug. 30.
Instead of pairing the soup with papeda (sago congee), as commonly enjoyed by people in the eastern part of Indonesia, Papuan chef Charles Toto served cubed mashed keladi (yam) with grated pumpkin on top.
A small basket of chips made of sukun (breadfruit) and keladi was served together with its sambal dip made of cakalang asap (Papuan-style cured and smoked skipjack tuna) to complement the dish.
Next on the menu was a platter of three sautéed dishes to share that comprises udang selingkuh (cheating prawn), gelisah (nervous) and garnisun (garrison) with fried yam and pumpkins as garnish.
“The freshwater prawn is unique to Wamena [in Jayapura, Papua] and it has pinchers like a crab, hence the name udang selingkuh,” said Toto during the narrated dinner.
