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Boats in the harbor at the busy fishing port at Newlyn, with Penzance in the background (JP/Tim Hannigan) From the top of the rocky headland, wild coastline opened in both directions. To the east, we could see the way we had come, craggy buttresses of dark stone towering above foaming water. Inland there were rugged granite hills and small hamlets among stone-walled fields. To the west, a sweep of heather-cloaked cliffs ran out to a distant promontory marked with a bone-white lighthouse. And a hundred meters below, shifting and surging, cobalt-blue in the autumn sunlight, was the Atlantic Ocean. For the next three days that ocean would always be there to our right, as we made our way on foot along the edge of the westerly tip of the United Kingdom. The county Cornwall is Britain's answer to Bali. Forming a narrowing peninsula at the southwest corner of the country, ...