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Jakarta Post

Smells like truffle season

If during your culinary explorations you have developed a taste for black truffles, then it's time you stepped out to meet its relative, the white truffle of Alba

Tifa Asrianti (The Jakarta Post)
JAKARTA
Sun, November 22, 2009 Published on Nov. 22, 2009 Published on 2009-11-22T14:40:38+07:00

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I

f during your culinary explorations you have developed a taste for black truffles, then it's time you stepped out to meet its relative, the white truffle of Alba.

And now is the time to do it: The seasonal mushroom happens to be in town this November.

Famous for its scent, flavor and quality, the best Alba truffles are found in the Piedmont region of Italy. Most prized by truffle lovers, this exotic creamy beige-colored mushroom with its rich, distinctive and simply unforgettable aroma enjoys an unrivaled reputation in the culinary world.

Chocolate almond cake from Capri Island, vanilla ice cream, Alba truffle. JP/Tifa Asrianti

These expensive white truffles find their way into all sorts of dishes, from appetizers to main courses and even dessert. They are best mixed with simple foods, such as pasta or with a mixture of local salads and cheeses.

And where to sample this delight without changing continents?

The Steak House at Four Seasons Hotel Jakarta will be serving dishes featuring white truffles until Nov. 30. The hotel is presenting Chef Loris Pistillo, senior chef de partie of Taman Wantilan Restaurant from the Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay.

Seven dishes are on the chef's special white truffle menu, with Italian names that roll off your tongue as smoothly as the truffles will roll onto it. Just try a few: capasanta con polenta soffice al parmigiano e tartufo d'Alba (seared king scallops with parmesan, soft polenta and Alba truffle); tajierin mantecati con tartufo d'Alba (fresh fettuccini with Alba truffle); filleto di rombo con fure' di sedano di verona, porcini croccanti e tartufo di Alba (seared turbot fillet, celeriac puree, saut*ed porcini mushroom, Alba truffle reduction). Each dish contains 2 grams of truffles.

White chocolate mousse, truffl e vanilla ice cream Courtesy of The Ritz-Carlton Jakarta, Pacific Place

Of the seven dishes, The Jakarta Post tried four. The appetizer was carpaccio di wagyu con insalatina di sedano e croccehette di osso buco (wagyu beef carpaccio, celery and baby greens salad, ossobuco croquette, Alba truffle), a fresh and juicy combination to start the dinner.

Next on the menu was risotto con cantarelle parmigiano e tartufo d'Alba (chanterelle mushroom risotto with Alba truffle and parmesan), an al dente experience topped with the truffle's strong fragrance.

The main course offering - beef medaglioni di vitello e fegato grasso con spinaci novelli, tartufo bianco d'Alba, cappelletti alla cipolla caramellata e ricotta (grilled beef medallion and seared foie gras, baby spinach, shaved Alba truffle and sweet onion cappelletti) - and the dessert - torta caprese con gelato alla vaniglia (chocolate almond cake from Capri Island, vanilla ice cream, Alba truffle) - were also topped with shaved truffles.

The Ritz-Carlton Jakarta, Pacific Place and Etihad Airways also held a white truffles wine dinner on Nov. 13, having flown in for the meal Chef Igor Macchia from restaurant La Credenza, Italy.

As white truffles originated from Italy, which is also famous for its red wine, Macchia suggested red wines to accompany the dishes.

"Barbera is the kind of wine people drink with friends, while Barbaresco is wine for special occasions," Macchia said.

Sautéed black sea-bass, Jerusalem artichoke sauce, bread crouton, truffle Courtesy of The Ritz-Carlton Jakarta, Pacific Place

The chef prepared a five-course dinner that opened with trancio di branzino scottato, salsa topinambur, crostoni di pane e tartufo (sauteed black sea-bass, Jerusalem artichoke sauce, bread crouton, truffle), with tender mashed potato mixed with mascarpone cheese and butter. The wine pairing was 2007 Gavi di Gavi, "Rovereto", Michele Chiarlo, Piemonte.

The second plate was crema di patate, fegato d'oca scottato, gelatina al fondo bruno olio di nocciole con tartufo bianco (potato soup, pan seared foie gras, veal jus jelly, hazelnut oil, white truffle). The creamy soup was paired with 2001 Barbera d'Asti Superiore "La Court", Michele Chiarlo, Piemonte.

The third dish, served in a napkin, was agnolotti del plin serviti nel tovagliolo, tartufo bianco (agnolotti with beef spinach filling, white truffle, hazelnut oil), paired with a 2005 Barbaresco, Prunotto, Piemonte.

Macchia said that in the past, people did not have many plates, so they usually served agnolotti on a napkin to preserve its warmth.

"Each dish has a different amount of truffles, between 5 and 10 grams. The soup has less truffles, while the agnolotti has more," said Macchia, who brought 2 kilograms of Alba white truffles to Jakarta.

After all those truffle-topped menus, Macchia gave diners a break with the sorbetto allo chardonnay ed arance (chardonnay orange sherbet), a zesty sherbet that gives a kick.

The next dish was uovo morbido, fonduta, madorle e tartufo bianco (soft poached egg, cheese fondue, almonds, white truffles) paired with 2004 Barolo, "Tortoniano", Michele Chiarlo, Piemonte. The egg, just half cooked, was not smelly because Macchia put the eggs with the truffles for two days.

The final dish was mousse al cioccolato bianco, gelato alla vaniglia, tartufo bianco (white chocolate mousse, truffle vanilla ice cream) paired with 2008 Moscato d'Asti "Nivole", Michele Chiarlo, Piemonte.

As an old local tradition includes giving a prized truffle to a famous person, this November is the right time to treat yourself with a dose of truffles.

TRUFFLE TIME

The Steak House

Four Seasons Hotel

Jl. HR Rasuna Said

Jakarta 12920

Phone: (021) 252 3456

 

Pacific Restaurant & Lounge

The Ritz Carlton Jakarta, Pacific Place

Sudirman Central Business District (SCBD)

Jl. Jend. Sudirman Kav. 52 - 53, Jakarta 12190

Phone: (021) 2550 1888

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