Oranges, clementines, mandarins and grapefruits are in season in the Mediterranean and I'm delighted. Sure, I can find citrus fruit all year long in the store, but there are fewer varieties to choose from in the summer, when they'€™ll be expensive imports from the southern part of the globe. For me, nothing beats the aroma and succulence of oranges just picked just hours before arriving at the supermarkets'€“with their leaves still attached as proof.

I often prepare this crema catalana (caramelized custard) from the Catalonia region of Spain. It'€™s a relatively simple and quick dessert, perfect for when hosting a stress-free dinner party with friends. Usually crema catalana is flavored only with cinnamon and lemon or orange peels. I'€™ve had both versions, but I can'€™t decide which I prefer, so I use both types of citrus when I make my own.

Traditionally the custard is served in cazuela earthenware pots and the sugar crust is burned using a scorching hot iron stamp-round or coiled-called a ferro per cremar. The modern pastry torch is less dangerous, easier to clean and more practical.

By the way, crema catalana has many other names: Crema cremada'€“burnt cream in Catalan'€“or crema de Sant Josep, since it was originally made for Saint Joseph'€™s Day on March 19th, celebrated as Father'€™s Day in many Catholic countries.

At a glance, crema catalana resembles the French crème brûlée'€“which also means burnt cream. In fact there'€™s a unsettled debate between the Spanish and the French on the paternity of the caramelized custard, although each version has its differences. The French counterpart uses fresh cream instead of milk, vanilla for aroma and is usually cooked au bain marie'€“baked delicately in the oven with a touch of water at the bottom of the tray.

Serves 6

600 ml milk

4 egg yolks

80 g caster sugar

30 g cornstarch

Zest of ½ organic orange

Zest of ½ organic lemon

3 cm cinnamon stick

6 teaspoons brown sugar

* Place egg yolks, sugar and corn starch in a bowl. Whisk until mixture is pale and creamy.
* Combine milk, cinnamon and grated zest of lemon and orange in saucepan. Simmer over medium-low heat until about to boil.
* Remove from heat and cool for 10 to 15 minutes. This should also help the citrus and cinnamon flavor to infuse.
* Pour milk into egg mixture while passing through a fine sieve to discard zest and cinnamon sticks. Whisk rigorously and transfer to bigger saucepan.
* Bring to boil over low heat while whisking continuously. Custard is ready as soon as it thickens and a few big bubbles appear.
* Divide into the cazuelas (about 10 to12 cm in diameter) and tap bottom gently with the palm of your hand to level the cream.
* Cool to room temperature and refrigerate for at least a couple of hours before serving.
* Sprinkle each crema catalana'€™s surface with a generous even layer of brown sugar and caramelize using a pastry torch. Serve immediately or the sugar crust will melt and loose its crunch effect.

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