Cut it or scoop it? Despite its popularity, many people are still unaware of the right way to enjoy the cone-shaped rice dish tumpeng, or the philosophical meanings behind the dish and its side dishes.

Served mostly as a symbol of thanksgiving, people often cut the cone-shaped top of the tumpeng similar to the way a newlywed couple slices a wedding cake — not realizing that this is a mistake.

Indonesia Gastronomy Association (IGA) adviser Murdijati Gardjito said the right way to enjoy tumpeng was by scooping out the rice and its varied side dishes from the bottom by using a rice ladle — not even a spoon or a knife.

The food expert, who has written more than 60 books on Indonesian culinary culture, said that for Javanese people, tumpeng was not just a symbol of celebration. 

Tumpeng for them is a medium for communicating with the creator of nature. The cone-shaped top of the dish symbolizes the one and only God, and is always covered with a banana leaf to prevent the rice from falling, while the myriad rice on the bottom represents humanity. 

“If we cut the top of the dish, it means we cut the relationship or communication between humans and the Almighty,” the 77-year-old Gadjah Mada University professor said during an event to celebrate the association’s third anniversary in Jakarta. 

Murdijati said God always had a special place in the hearts of Javanese people because they believe they will reunite with their creator when they die.   

Tumpeng, which is widely believed to have existed in Indonesia from the eras of Hinduism and Buddhism, long before the arrival and spread of Islam in Java, is not just Indonesia’s culinary delight.

The dish is a sacred dish with a story and philosophical values that Indonesian people should understand. 

Indonesia is home to 17 variants of tumpeng and two of them — tumpeng punar and tumpeng megono — were served during the event.

Tumpeng punar, which signifies happiness and gratitude to God, is yellow as it is cooked in a variety of spices, while the white tumpeng megono, the symbol of holiness and purity, is made from plain steamed rice.

“There is also blue tumpeng to express an apology. All the tumpeng colors are from natural ingredients,” Murdijati said, adding that there was also colorful tumpeng called tumpeng pancawarna. 

Tumpeng punar and tumpeng megono may come in different in colors and flavors, but they both have seven side dishes that surround the cone. In the Javanese language, seven is pitu, short for the word pitulungan (help) that means a prayer to God for safety in life.

The seven side dishes represent the elements of animals, the sea and vegetables, such as fried chicken, telur pindang (Javanese braised egg), teri kacang (fried anchovy with peanuts), sayur urap (vegetable salad with grated coconut) and tempe orek (tempeh in sweet soy sauce).

Each side dish also has a philosophical meaning. 

“Tempeh and tofu teach us to lead a simple life,” Murdijati said. “Teri kacang means togetherness or having a good relationship with family and neighbors because anchovies live together in shoals in the sea.” 

The different types of side dishes in tumpeng can be also defined as different human feelings in life.  

A red chili — which is placed on top of tumpeng — is like a torch that Javanese people believe will light their way to God.  

The first person to be offered rice from the tumpeng does not necessarily have to be the oldest or the most respected guest.

Murdijati said everyone in the ceremony is allowed to scoop out the rice together as a symbol of equality — something that is called ngepung tumpeng, or surrounding the tumpeng. 

Tumpeng is also popular among Sundanese people.

In the Sundanese tradition, however, only women, who are not menstruating, are allowed to cook the dish; while men are in charge of preparing the ingredients.

In the making of tumpeng, the women are described as Ibu Pertiwi (Motherland), who gives people on earth prosperity, wealth and wellness.  

The association’s president, Ria Amalia Musiawan, said that as a cultural product, tumpeng should not just be looked at in a physical context.

She hoped Indonesian people would learn about its holistic aspects — from the preparation of ingredients and cooking process until the moment when the dish is served on the table.

“Tumpeng is also a prayer we address to God. If the top of it is cut, it means our prayer is interrupted before it reaches God,” Ria said.

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