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East Sumba and its unforgettable beauty

Jump in: The Waimarang waterfall features bright blue waters for visitors to swim in

Ayu Saptarika (The Jakarta Post)
East Sumba, East Nusa Tenggara
Thu, July 4, 2019 Published on Jul. 4, 2019 Published on 2019-07-04T02:58:09+07:00

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East Sumba and its unforgettable beauty

Jump in: The Waimarang waterfall features bright blue waters for visitors to swim in.

Remarkably contoured hills, huge green-and-gold meadows, beaches and waterfalls make East Sumba in East Nusa Tenggara a worthy place to visit again and again.

A trip to East Sumba usually begins in Waingapu, one of the main cities in the region. The weather here can be scorching hot during mid-day but at the same time the roads are relatively calm and empty, making it an enjoyable experience to visit various tourist spots in and around the city.

One of the tourism spots near Waingapu is the Waimarang waterfall, which is located about 90 minutes’ drive away. This waterfall is the perfect first destination for visitors arriving in the city.

The journey to the waterfall usually goes through Melolo village, with many pretty golden meadows with slight green trees around them.

During the dry season, usually in August to September, all the meadows turn brown. Oxen, pigs and goats freely roam the grassland, so visitors need to drive carefully.

It is around a 45-minute walk to the waterfall from the parking space. The way to get there is quite challenging with forest, hills and narrow paths.

The walk is worth it eventually with the majestic view of the pristine rocky waterfall and its light blue water. There is no better way to celebrate the achievement of reaching the waterfall than by swimming in it and this is a once-in-a-lifetime experience for any visitor.

Visitors, however, should not get carried away swimming because the area has no electric light and is surrounded by forest. Therefore, it is important to return to the entrance gate before the sun goes down.

Splashy: The Tanggedu waterfall has become an iconic spot in East Sumba with its layers and layers of water streams.
Splashy: The Tanggedu waterfall has become an iconic spot in East Sumba with its layers and layers of water streams.

The entrance is also an attraction. Just on the right side of it is a meadow and here Sumba horses regularly graze. The sight of them living wild and free is a view to behold and to capture in photographs.

Upon returning to Waingapu, visitors can enjoy seafood dinner in the city’s harbor area as a perfect closing to the day. The vicinity here is modest but the quality of the seafood dishes is top notch.

Visitors can choose which kinds of freshly caught seafood they want to eat directly from the fishermen, who will then cook them on the spot.

After a good night’s sleep in the city, visitors can further explore East Sumba by visiting another waterfall called Tanggedu, which is one of the most iconic destinations in the region.

It takes about two hours driving through the breathtaking Puru Kambera savanna hills to get to the Tanggedu waterfall and again visitors need to walk between 45 and 60 minutes to reach it.

The access to Tanggedu waterfall is much more challenging but again, its views and serenity make it worth the struggle to get there.

Tanggedu consists of layers and layers of huge stunning waterfalls with the biggest waterfall stream located on the left side from the arrival track. Visitors are welcome to swim here but they need to be very careful because the water flow is very strong.

A brief stop at Puru Kambera savanna is a must when visitors return to Waingapu after enjoying their time at the Tanggedu waterfall. The view in this savanna is unique during late afternoon. It features a huge stretch of green gold savanna hills divided by roads with the calm ocean on the other side.

Parting gifts: Tenun fabrics can be purchased in Praliu village.
Parting gifts: Tenun fabrics can be purchased in Praliu village.

The cumulus clouds in the sky perfectly accentuate the savanna even more, making the view look like a masterpiece painting. This spot is also a great place to watch the russet sunset of the eastern Indonesian region.

If watching the sunset is too mainstream, visitors can wake up earlier to catch the sunrise, which gives a different vibe and sensation. Be ready to wake up at 4 a.m. to catch the sunrise on Walakiri Beach, which is located around 30 minutes’ drive from Waingapu.

In early morning, the sea recedes far from the shoreline. Visitors are able to walk straight to the ocean amid old and unique mangrove trees. They look like as if they are dancing with trunks and branches that have been bent by waves. Their unique shapes create exotic silhouettes. The rosy morning sunrays create special shadow effects on them.

Next to beach are the hills of Tanau. This is also a stunning spot to visit during the morning hours. These layers of green hills are a serene place to hang around under a beaming sun.

Visitors who want to purchase some memorabilia from East Sumba can visit Praliu village, known as Sumba’s tenun (hand woven cloth) producing area. Most housewives in the village work as weavers.

The horse, cock, tribe and mask are some of the Sumba cloth signature patterns. The dark colors of the weave vary from dark blue, brown and deep purple, to light colors such as terracotta, red and white. Sumba’s woven cloth generally has more complicated patterns and color combinations unlike those of Rote Island, Flores and Timor.

“It takes approximately three to six months to finish a piece of cloth. It will depend on how difficult the patterns and motifs are. Some special cloths can take almost one year to complete,” said Mama Reynold, one of the Sumba cloth makers in the village.

Serenity: The green hills of Tanau are a majestic sight to behold in East Sumba.
Serenity: The green hills of Tanau are a majestic sight to behold in East Sumba.

— Photos by Ayu Saptarika

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How to get around:

* UV lotion, hat, sunglasses and comfortable shoes are crucial to enjoying East Sumba’s tourist spots.

* Ensure your camera’s memory card is empty because you will definitely take loads of images.  

* Cellular phone signal and internet connection are limited.

* Bring cash.

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