Not simply collecting, watch collectors can explore their hobby through ‘modding’.

For collectors, watches often stand as a representation of the times they hold most dear in life - a step up the ladder in their success story, a memento symbolizing loved ones, or a specific moment they want to cherish for as long as possible. For others however, they are investments. This is especially true in the past few years, when the price of watches has drastically increased.

During the pandemic, as of July 2020, sales of watches globally increased by 7.6 percent, the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FHS) reported.

“I am a watch collector, but I’m currently a bit tired of the game. I’ve had problems with getting hold of several rare watches. Only a handful of people have in their possession the most coveted watches and then they resell them. For example, for a Rolex steel watch, you can buy at Rp 150 million [$10,461.49] retail price, with a resale price of Rp 500 million,” Benny, a watch enthusiast and notable critic on Instagram, who does not want to use his real name, said.

Watches have been seen as a symbol of success. However, the watch modding industry has recently changed the perspective of watch collecting. People now could customize their watches according to their preference. (Pexels/Mitchel Durfee (Pexel/Mitchel Durfee)

Recently, the popularity of watch “modding” (modifying) in Indonesia has increased. The most popular model to modify is the Seiko SKX007 mainly because the watch itself is affordable compared with Swiss watches, which are generally considered the best in the world. When it comes to modding watches, people can customize the dial, bezel, even the hour and second hands. People can also combine parts of different watches into one piece.

Modifying a Swiss watch, however, is not impossible. Bamford Watch Department, an England-based watch company founded by George Bamford, is an example. It is known for customizing brands like Tag Heuer, Zenith and others. Once looked down upon, Bamford has secured a position as a collaborating partner of Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s (LVMH) watchmaking division.

New appreciation

There is no exact history on when watch modding became a trend, but it has been popular outside Indonesia for a decade, becoming a sub-culture in the watch-collecting world.

“It’s almost like we’re selling dreams to people. There are times when I get requests to create a homage to Rolex watches for people who cannot afford a [real] Rolex watch. Of course, some people are just really into collecting,” said Stephan, a watch modding expert based in Jakarta who is also known as stph_dxtr on Instagram.  He illustrated that for a Rolex GMT 6542 that costs about $57,000, he can build a homage version of the watch for a much-cheaper $800.

“Owning a modded watch is better than buying a replica. I could make almost everything. And I’ll always ask about their budget. So let’s say someone only wanted to change the dial, it could perhaps start from $100 to $300 depending on how complicated it is, because everything is made by hand” he continued.

Moreover, cost-effectiveness is not the only reason why modding watches makes people take notice. He explained that if someone modified their Swiss-made watch, it would lose its real value, and authentic dealers do not cover modifications in their warranty plan.

Watch modding can serve as a canvas for those who are interested in exploring their creativity. He said watch modding is an art, as modifying a watch can take up to three to four months, depending on the details requested by the customer.

“There’s almost no limit with the watch modding. One time, a customer requested a space theme for his dial. It’s challenging, but I really enjoyed it,” he said.

Modding watch is not only limited only t o homage watches. A customised dial also attract watch enthusiast to have their own modded watches. (Personal Collection/Courtesy of Ryco Haryanto) (Personal Collection/Courtesy of Ryco Haryanto)

Ryco Haryanto, a watch collector based in Jakarta, had his Seiko watch modded. “The first time I had my watch professionally modded was back in 2020 for my Seiko Turtle. I changed everything from its dial to its insert bezel and since then I’ve got six modified watches,” he said.

Edward “Ed” Francois, another watch collector from Indonesia concurs. “It’s just a new way to appreciate a new world of watch collecting, because you can build something personal for yourself. Anyway, I appreciate both my modded watch and my Swiss-made watches equally.”

Higher potential market

Watch modding has lucrative potential in the Indonesian market. Enthusiasts claim that modded watches are not something to be looked down upon. Stephan revealed that once he received an order to mod a $4,000 watch which was going to be sent abroad.

“My only main concern is we cannot source spare parts from inside the country just yet,” he said. He also said that he appreciates people who can see the value of a modded watch beyond paying homage to the original brands.

Furthermore, modded watches have their own segment in the secondary market, especially for people with a similar hobby. Ed occasionally sells his modded watches through his Instagram account, Watchunting.

“Well, people are intrigued because everything related to modding watches is very personal. Modded watch owners are guaranteed to stand out with their watches because they are customized to their own liking. Even if it's done by the same person, the result will not be the same, being made by hand,” Ed explained.

"People don't have to feel small because they own modified watches, either. As long as we are not trying to be someone else too," Benny closed.