Established in 2021, ready-to-wear brand Everyday prioritizes wearability and durability by combining practical styles and fun patterns. In order to achieve these signature traits in the collection, Everyday uses Tencel eco-friendly fabrics and decorates them with beach-themed designs made by young illustrator Alayka Seputra, daughter of the power couple Ari and Sari Seputra.

Any offcuts and remaining materials from the production of this limited collection are processed by the mothers from the Mountain Mamas into accessories.

"That way, through this Everyday x Melati Wijsen collaboration, we are slowly trying to put our philosophy [to extend the lifespan of fabrics and clothes] into practice," Fian Asfianti, brand manager for Everyday, said.

Dusty blue and sandy hues topped with shells, ocean waves, coral and flower shapes are sprawled across the resort wear pieces. The beach dresses and full-print formal sets resulted from a mood board based on Melati's personal style.

"Growing up so close to nature has shaped my character. Therefore, I want this capsule collection to reflect that. This is a symbol of the nature that has shaped me, and I hope this can also make other people want to be a part of nature," said Melati.

Going sustainable: Everyday and Melati argue that the zero waste principles, its limited amount, the use of ecofriendly material and empowerment of the Mountain Mamas are some of the collection's added values. (Personal/CollectionCourtesy of everyday) (Personal Collection/Courtesy of Everyday)

An industry finding its way

The Tourism and Creative Economy Ministry listed US$19.6 billion, an 11.9 percent contribution, from the creative industry to the national exports balance in 2019. A whopping 62.04 percent was contributed by the fashion industry. The Indonesian fashion industry is thriving, but some fear the cost.

"It is a pertinent issue right now with climate change, and we cannot ignore the fact that the fashion industry is one of the biggest contributors to waste," said Camelia Harahap, head of arts and creative economy, British Council Indonesia.

"In my opinion, it is a good sign of progress that fashion brands and designers are looking toward sustainability," she continued. "However, sustainable fashion and brands looking into becoming more sustainable can often be seen as contradictory."

According to Camelia, some may consider it as greenwashing or that the brands are just jumping onto the trend because sustainability is "the latest catchphrase".

"FashionRevolution also once posed the question: 'can the fashion industry truly be sustainable?' Because as long as we continue to produce, we persist in creating waste. That is why it is often said that the most sustainable [piece of] clothing is the one already in your wardrobe," said Camelia.

"I think there needs to be some kind of way for us to find balance — because, on the one hand, we cannot ignore that humans have a strong need for consumption — but how do we do that sustainably?"

The answer is nigh

Camelia might be finding the answer to her question soon as Everyday, a spinoff from Dan Liris' Major Minor, has just launched a collaboration with Bali-based environmental activist Melati Wijsen — known for her Bye Bye Plastic Bags that she established with her sister Isabel Wijsen in 2013. Melati is also known for several other initiatives that focus on environmental or social causes, such as Mountain Mamas and Youthtopia.

"We further translated this spirit [of environmental, social, and governance in our collaboration with Melati]. Melati is a change maker who has been working for a long time to create a better world. [Her passion] for making good changes is in line with our Everyday philosophy," said Fian.

Inspiration: The collection was based on a mood board inspired by Melati's personal style. (Personal Collection/Courtesy of everyday).jpg (Personal Collection/Courtesy of Everyday)

New innovations

When it comes to maintaining environmental ideals, Everyday and Melati set certain boundaries, including material prerequisites and limitations on the number of articles.

"I feel comfortable [working with the brand] because we're heading in the same direction," said Melati about the collaboration. She explained that on top of using eco-friendly materials and collaborating with Mountain Mamas to tackle the manufacturing waste, quantity mattered, "it is also a limited capsule collection that I hope would limit the risk of overconsumption."

According to Camelia, the current supply chain in the fashion industry offers various kinds of sustainable materials, ranging from those processed from recycled fabrics or even materials that allow faster decomposition processes. 

"There is so much new, interesting innovation around this now," she explained while revealing the British Council's new program named AlterMatter in collaboration with CAST Foundation, Playo and Applied Arts Scotland. "Fabrics made out of household waste like mushrooms, leather made out of chicken feet [like from Bandung brand Hirka] and so much more."

AlterMatter will start digitally in February 2022. The program aims to innovate new materials by bringing British and Indonesian brands and material designers together to explore the possibilities. 

"I am hoping that Major Minor and Melati's collaboration can pave the way for other brands in the Indonesian fashion sector to start looking at sustainability. I know there are a couple of great local designers doing this already, like SukkhaCitta, ImajiStudio and Pijak Bumi, just to name a few," said Camelia.

"But I definitely think there is room for this sector to grow as sustainability becomes not just a catchphrase, but a necessity."

ohmg