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Jakarta Post

When it comes to hearty fare, Eastern Promise keeps its word

Since the 1980s, Kemang has become one of the more prominent "restaurant rows" in Jakarta

Agnes Ilyas (The Jakarta Post)
Jakarta
Sun, March 9, 2008 Published on Mar. 9, 2008 Published on 2008-03-09T11:16:07+07:00

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When it comes to hearty fare, Eastern Promise keeps its word

Since the 1980s, Kemang has become one of the more prominent "restaurant rows" in Jakarta. As it has blossomed over the years, Kemang has seen many restaurants come and go; but very few of them have stood the test of time.

One of the establishments that has succeeded in doing so (although barely at times) is Eastern Promise, whose various incarnations range from an authentic Indian Cuisine sit-down establishment of that name to a buffet, takeout and catering place called Napolina, before once again metamorphosing into its current and probably best ever incarnation as a traditional English-style pub and restaurant.

There are two clearly marked entrances in its invitingly rustic facade: The right entrance being for those in search of a long, cool draught of beer, or other alcoholic refreshment, and the one on the left leading into a long hallway that bypasses the pub and deposits you in what is possibly one of the homiest and friendliest looking dining rooms in Jakarta.

The authentic wood paneling and the mood lighting can make even the most harried soul take a deep breath and relax. Each of the booths along the left wall is invitingly comfortable and spacious enough to seat a party of 10. The rest of the dining room offers seating at solid wooden tables of various sizes, which can accommodate from two to 10 hungry diners at a time.

Upon stepping foot into the restaurant hallway, we were immediately greeted by a chirpy "hello" from the cashier and the warm smile of our waitress for the evening. We were then quickly led to the table where our outlying scout was waiting and already enjoying a bowl of cream of mushroom soup.

Menus were quickly passed about and just as rapidly elicited oohs and aahs of delight as the five of us marveled at the sheer variety of dishes offered.

I swear they have everything you could possibly think of: nasi goreng, pizza, authentic Indian curry, and pub food like bangers and mash, cottage pie or fish and chips, as well as sandwiches - ranging from the ubiquitous burger to rather experimental creations involving two pieces of bread (more on the latter later).

To give you an even better idea of the wide range of the menu, this is what our ravenous troop ordered: For appetizers, we opted for onion rings, cheese naan, garlic naan, vegetable samosas and lamb samosas, with the samosas being the clear winners of this round due to the flavor punch that is packed in every single bite.

For the main course, we went for the Savory Beef Cottage Pie with Gravy and a side of steamed vegetables; Beef Curry Madras with Saffron Rice, Nicoise Salad, and the champion of this course, the Camembert Sandwich with Sliced Fresh Pears and Rosemary Honey on a Baguette.

When the main courses came, honestly, we felt a bit disappointed by the plain and bare-bones nature of the presentation. Ituntil we dug in that we realized how wrong we were to judge the books by their covers. The dishes all possessed excellent flavors, some more nuanced than others.

The Beef Curry Madras with Saffron Rice was all that it promised to be: tender chunks of beef steeped in a flavorful creamy red curry sauce.

It was very good, but it wasn't special, as in you could find curry like this at any decent Indian joint in town. The Salad Nicoise, however, was quite special, with the flavors of the anchovies mixing beautifully with the sweet and smooth dressing.

The Savory Beef Cottage Pie was a hearty delight, with the cheesy mashed potato topping baked to perfection and the ground beef inside cooked and spiced just right, and when you add the gravy, the combination of flavors is comforting enough to make your heart smile.

The piece de resistance was definitely the delectably creative Camembert Sandwich. This sandwich was such a stroke of genius and impressed us so much that we couldn't help but pass it around the table so every one of us could share in the delight.

The combination of thick slices of creamy Camembert with fresh lettuce, sliced pears, and the subtle caress of the rosemary honey was enough to forever remain in our collective culinary memory.

To finish everything off, we ordered Rose's Lemon Cheesecake which proved to be a brilliant end to a wonderful meal with its creamy texture, subtle lemon tang, and beautifully crumbly crust.

Despite the lack of flourish and creativity in the presentation of its food, Eastern Promise kept its word in providing a truly comfortable and sincerely memorable dining experience that is sure to turn even the casual diner who just happened to walk in into a steady and loyal customer.

I highly recommend this fantastic eatery to anyone out for a nice homey dinner or even a quick bite of lunch.

Eastern Promise

Jl. Kemang Raya No. 5

South Jakarta

Phone: (021) 71790151

Open seven days a week

from noon to midnight

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