Biyan and Bailey join fashion forces

Bruce Emond ,  The Jakarta Post ,  Jakarta   |  Sun, 05/04/2008 10:06 AM  |  Lifestyle

Biyan Wanaatmadja and Preston Bailey: (JP/J. Adiguna)

The gorgeously elegant designs of Biyan Wanaatmadja have been a mainstay on the Indonesian fashion scene for the past two decades. A master craftsman, he shapes his diaphanous creations to fit and flatter the woman, whoever she is.

Those who wear them -- from the pencil-thin socialites who crowded his spectacular Biyan Bride show last week to more "ordinary" women who put aside a little to buy a coveted something each season -- talk about how they make them feel. They can be opulent without being ostentatious, sensual and serene sirens in their own contemporary fashion play.

A Biyan fashion show always draws a crowd, including March's Studio 133 hippie chic-inspired collection. But on this special night, renowned event organizer to the stars Preston Bailey was another major attraction, and he did not disappoint.

He brought out all the stops, organizing the event in a cavernous green tent at The Dharmawangsa ballroom that was festooned with roses roses everywhere.

The show was aptly titled "Inspirations" and after a group of violin players in black tie sauntered down the pristinely white catwalk, the models appeared as breathtaking visions of sedate beauty. They were adorned in pure white, ivory lavender, cream, slate gray, in lace, silk, organza and taffeta, sometimes encrusted with sequins, rosettes, Swarovski crystals and Biyan's trademark beautiful beadwork.

(JP/J. Adiguna)

There were demure high collars and strapless A-line dresses, sculptured to the body or flowing slightly off the frame. Hair was piled high into tousled, loosely pinned manes and chignons; makeup was soft, feminine and natural.

It was very much in the tradition of a fine, classy romance, without slipping into fussy frou-frou finery.

Amid the parade of ultra-skinny, wan European models who are coming to dominate the catwalk, homegrown stars Karenina and the impish, irrepressible Naila Alatas breathed a little fun into the fashion. Willowy Karenina, with her distinctive galloping gait, tattoos and ever batting eyelids to the press corps, and Naila, showed that the creations are a seamless fit for any woman -- young, older or in-between -- on her big day.

"It's good, but you kind of wish he would try something a bit different," one of the fashion crowd murmured as Biyan took his bow at the end of the show.

But, as the old saying goes (and still holds true), if it ain't broke, then why ever would you try to fix it?

Since starting out in the 1980s, Biyan has always been ready to innovate while standing by his principles of making women look good. He has sold his clothes in Singapore, among other places, for many years, and his Studio 133 diffusion line hits the mark with younger women, and those young at heart. The tie-up with Bailey is another very strategic move from the Indonesian designer.

It also could be called a case of opposites attract between the soft-spoken, unfailingly polite Biyan and flamboyant New Yorker Bailey.

"Every day is a new experience for me, and it was really overwhelming for me to have the chance to collaborate with him," Biyan said Wednesday. "I could describe him as a very extraordinary person, extraordinarily talented ... It was a great and exciting challenge for me to work with him."

He praised Bailey's ability to work as a creative ringmaster, bringing together all the varied elements in one cohesive whole.

(JP/J. Adiguna)

"The thing that makes me very pleased is that in the team there were mostly Indonesian hands, and that we have a lot of talent and we can do this kind of thing."

Tall and lean (he modeled as a young man), Bailey tried his hand as a florist after his men's clothing store went out of business in 1980. One thing led to another; he became friends with the American comedian Joan Rivers and she recognized that not only could he put flowers in their pretty place, but he also had mean event organizing skills.

Today dubbed the "Designer to the Stars," he is the man that Middle Eastern millionaires and Hollywood powers that be call on when they need a sumptuous shindig or a no-expenses-spared wedding celebration.

He organized the nuptials of Donald Trump and Melanie Knauss and also Oprah Winfrey's 50th birthday celebration that was broadcast on her show.

"It was something I had never thought about before, but I got into out of necessity -- I needed a job. And it has taken me all over the world," the personable Panamanian-born Bailey told The Jakarta Post before the show.

Like many partnerships, he says there was a little bit of luck in coming together with Biyan.

"I had seen his clothing about five years ago, and I really thought it was very special. Then his people called me up to discuss things, and we got together and we decided to do this wonderful evening -- it's the right timing."

(JP/J. Adiguna)

In fact, Bailey is making Jakarta his Asian base as he looks to expand into this region. He is the first to admit that he is not interested in keeping things simple or on a short budget; lavish is where it's at. He says he has been impressed by the love of luxury and entertaining "bigger than life" in the Indonesian capital. "That's the reason this market interests me," he said.

"I've never worked in anything but a luxury market, and I'm hoping to work in that market here also."

His reputation precedes him, but what else will he have to offer jaded Jakartans apart from sharing six degrees of separation with Ms. Winfrey et al?

"What I bring is potentially a new twist, and the clients who come to us come for that reason -- to get a little surprise ... I love the Asian design, I know what it's about, it's inspiring to me, but it's always exciting to me to take it and reinterpret it."

It looks like Jakarta's well-heeled will have a new man to make their fairy-tales come true.

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