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Jakarta Post

Dazzling exotic bling

Gold is bold; silver is forever

Dian Kuswandini (The Jakarta Post)
Jakarta
Tue, June 8, 2010

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Dazzling exotic bling

Gold is bold; silver is forever. Under an expert’s exotic touch, those metals are being recast with new souls.

The colors of Indonesia: Models wear Meike Sahala’s jewelry created with Indonesian semi-precious stones.

Jewelry, a treasured fashion staple for decades, has long been associated with beauty. However who says that beauty is the only thing that defines jewelry? Contemporary designers find inspiration everywhere, and jewelry made today combines haute couture with personal stories and philosophies.

Designer Meike Sahala, 46, infuses her creations with nostalgia and pride. At first glance, Meike’s designs are beautiful. At second glance, looking at the jewelry in detail, we see something more than gemstones and pearls set on gold and silver. Meike has captured the spirit of Indonesia in a lovely form.

Meike has reached the international market with her company, Astana Megrania, which is based in Semarang, Central Java.

She has had exhibitions in Spain, the Netherlands, the US, Brazil, Colombia, Peru, Chile and Australia. The designer has won awards from President Susilo Bambang Yudho-yono, Industry and Trade Ministries and the Indonesian Chamber of Commerce and Industry.

Meike stands out from other designers because of her focus on Indonesia, as her heritage and as a rich source of inspiration. Her creations are infused with the traditional charm of batik, traditional carvings and even the bas-reliefs at Borobudur Temple.

Identity, she says, has always been at the heart of her creations.

“I love fashion, but I don’t want to forget about our culture. My concern is that Indonesian jewelry is losing its identity and tends to be monotonous — the same old designs.”

Meike has two missions: To promote Indonesia’s heritage to the world and to encourage Indonesians to feel proud of their rich culture and nature.

“Most people and local designers are carried away with materials from other countries, but not me. I want to bring what we have to the world. Even our own people tend to look down on local jewelry. What I’m doing is trying to change their perceptions. I create exquisite jewelry that’s rich in cultural and philosophical values, something that would make anyone proud to wear it.”

We should be proud to see the unique reliefs of Borobodur and Prambanan Temples on her brooches, pendants and earrings, some of which are now in the collection of the wife of the Sultan of Yogyakarta, Gusti Kanjeng Ratu Hemas. Meike also uses historical buildings in Semarang such as Blenduk Church and the Tugu Muda monument in her creations.

“Borobudur Temple is a magnificent object from a bygone time. If we can bring its spirit into vogue today, it would become ‘alive’ for us. Somehow it won’t just be remembered as something ancient,” says Meike, who calls each of her works “a miniature in metal”.

“I’m bridging the past to the present through my jewels.”

That spirit can been seen in her creations that incorporate batik motifs such as buketan (flower bouquet) and mega mendung (clouds) from Cirebon. The motifs are carved on brooches, bangles, necklaces, earrings and pendants that are made of gold, silver and bronze.

“Rich, beautiful batik motifs shouldn’t be confined to fabrics,” Meike said. “They can also be reborn as three-dimensional objects like necklaces, bangles and earrings.”

“It’s all about conveying messages and philosophies,” says Meike, who always includes a personal messages on a piece of paper with each item of jewelry. “If we infuse our creation with a message or a philosophy, then it will affect those who wear it.”

The spirit of batik and old artifacts isn’t the only things that Meike breathes into jewelry. For example, the kanthil flower, which has a mystical meaning in Javanese tradition, is also one of her inspirations.

Meike said that she wants to send a message through design that local flowers are just as pretty as the roses or tulips that have been the main inspirations for Indonesian designers.

Meike doesn’t only focus on her designs; her works use Indonesian gemstones and materials such as diamonds, rubies, sapphires, pearls, clamshells and even coral.

Gold batik flower: Batik motif-inspired gold brooches are adorned with pearls from Lombok Sea.
Gold batik flower: Batik motif-inspired gold brooches are adorned with pearls from Lombok Sea.

 

She uses emeralds and amethysts from Kalimantan and akik from Sukabumi, West Java and Wonogiri, Central Java. She collects pearls from fishermen in Manado, South Sulawesi, and Bali.

In some creations, Meike uses local woods such as sonokeling, also known as Indonesian rosewood, which has a unique texture.

“All of my jewelry is made from our rich sources, from precious gemstones to [stones] that people often ignore, such as dead sea corals or clamshells,” says Meike.

“Look at these clamshells — most people would just ignore them and throw them away, but I’m very obsessed with turning them into some fine jewels.”

Meike says she has just begun to explore the potential of the country’s coastal areas, and is looking at underwater rocks and seashells. People only look at the biotic aspect of the sea, not the abiotic one,
she says.

“I keep wondering why people don’t look at sea rocks. This rock is a result of 35 million years of natural process,” she said while showing one of her bangles with a sparkling yellow rock. “Just see how beautiful it is. [The rock] has an unpredictable form, and that makes this bangle one of a kind.”

Meike said she was replicating an Indonesian sense of harmony in her jewelry.

Deep diving:  Warm and cold elements meet, with this combination of wood and gold — symbolizing warmth, with blue gemstones and clamshells, symbolizing the cold.
Deep diving: Warm and cold elements meet, with this combination of wood and gold — symbolizing warmth, with blue gemstones and clamshells, symbolizing the cold.

Meike uses local materials and incorporates local philosophies in her works. She also embraces old metalworking techniques rarely used today, such as tatah (chisel), tempah (hammering) and sudetan (a special technique of pressed-carving), sulam pilligri from Ujung Pandang and ukel and jawan jawan from Bali.

“I incorporate old techniques of metalworking from across the archipelago and hire local workers to apply the techniques,” says Meike, “My works are all about the harmony of Indonesia.”

She promotes this harmony through her jewels, despite also being inspired by the classic baroque style from the late 16th century to 18th century in Europe — one of the hottest global trends in jewelry today.
“When I was in Italy, I was inspired by Bernini’s works and baroque style,” says “As a designer, I have to read and follow the trends. At the same time, I want to include the harmony of Indonesia into
my jewelry.”

Therefore, Meike decided to put the European style in an Indonesian context. For example, she combines batik motifs and baroque-inspired sculptures to give her jewelry a unique look.

“I may follow global trends, but one thing is for sure. I’ll never forget my heritage, because if I do, my jewelry will just be the same as others.”

Meike stands out from other designers because of her focus on Indonesia, as her heritage and as a rich source of inspiration.

— Photos courtesy of Meike Sahala

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