You’ll be transported back to the 1870s: The alley meanders between character Victorian cottages, and offers glimpses of peaceful secluded gardens. This trenchant contrast is what Wellington is all about: A cocktail of typical urban and rural settings in a confined space that beguiles town and country partisans alike.

World-class museums, funky bars, hip cafés, sophisticated gastronomy, sprawling parks with spectacular vistas, pleasant enough beaches… Culture, arts, and nature, within a stone’s throw of each other: New Zealand’s small capital city has much to boast about. Why then is it so often neglected by international travelers?  

Historically, Wellington hasn’t figured on the New Zealand must-see itinerary which includes Auckland, Rotorua, Christchurch, Mt. Cook and Queenstown. Formerly a mere stopover before boarding the ferry to the South Island, Wellington has raised its profile as a destination in its own right for visitors eager to sample the kiwi lifestyle.

Over the past two decades, the city has shaken down its bureaucratic doziness, a metamorphosis recently acknowledged by Lonely Planet editions which hail Wellington the “best little capital in the world” in their Best in Travel 2011 guide and rank it fourth in the top 10 cities to visit this year.

Tucked in the southern tip of the North Island, wedged between Port Nicholson Bay and Cook Strait, Wellington is a compact town best explored on foot, even though that may prove strenuous at times considering the steep hilly topography.

A stroll along the waterfront — Wellingtonians’ living room, amid joggers and bicyclists, is the obvious way to first get acquainted with the city.

The historic harbor has been spared from erratic development: former sheds now house dynamic art galleries (the Museum of Wellington City and Sea, the portrait gallery and the Academy of Fine Arts, all admissions free).

On public celebrations, residents congregate in Civic Square, a plaza harmoniously encircled by the Town Hall (1904), the City Gallery (1939) and the Library (1991). The sea wall, adorned with monumental sculptures and literary quotations from local writers, takes you all the way down to Oriental Bay, a promenade shaded by Norfolk pines, where you might take a dip on a sunny day. The road then continues for approximately 30 kilometers along the convoluted coast all the way around the Miramar peninsula. It’s an enchanting drive along a succession of sheltered coves, ending at the Te Kopahou reserve, famous for its red rocks and seal colony.

Other trails wander through the city’s neighborhoods themselves — Newtown, Mt. Cook, Hataitai, Thorndon or Karori — where rows of quaint wooden bungalows with a Pacific Island touch (tin-corrugated roofs, welcoming verandahs, and decorative fretwork) will delight the architecture amateur.

Those walkways usually straddle over one section or other of the Town Belt, the scenic reserve which links hill ridges. Needless to say, those tracks abound with lookouts, the most popular being Mt. Victoria’s summit (196 meters) as it rewards with a bird’s eye view of the region.

In some parts though, you’ll find yourself immersed in the bush, no construction in sight, tuning in to the peculiar bird song of the endemic tui, more akin to a beat box than a melody.

The Te Papa Museum is the one attraction not to miss. It tells the story of New Zealand, its environment and its inhabitants in a compelling way, blending natural history, anthropology, and art collections. A fairly recent institution, inaugurated in 1998, it seized the challenge of enhancing the visitor’s museum experience by relying heavily on interactive displays. It is particularly relevant when it comes to understand the nation’s foundation, the Waitangi Treaty, signed in 1840 between British Crown representatives and Maori leaders, which enshrined the principle of biculturalism.

Cuba Street, a pedestrian mall, is the bohemian heart of the city. You’ll find bars, vintage clothing stores, second-hand bookstores, and the ubiquitous coffee shops. For a Wellington sojourn would not be complete without savoring a long black or a flat white in one of the city’s numerous cafés.

The coffee culture in Wellington may be traced back to the influx of Greek and Italian immigrants in the wake of World War I, yet things really got serious in the 1990s when some local aficionados started roasting their own beans.

Caffe L’Affare, Fidel’s, Mojo are just a few of the popular spots where Wellingtonians meet friends, conduct business, or just linger and watch people.

A deserved respite for those travelers who flock to New Zealand in quest of adrenalin-packed
adventures.

— Cécile Lepage

Popular

Gerindra politician says bigger cabinet would benefit Indonesia

Asia shares rise on rate cut bets; RBA seen turning hawkish

PDI-P considering Anies, Ahok as Jakarta gubernatorial candidates