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Cod of war: Ukraine batters British fish and chips

They have weathered the storm of Brexit and Covid, but thousands of Britain's fish and chip shops could be sunk by the war in Ukraine.

Brigitte Dusseau (AFP)
Premium
Brighton, United Kingdom
Fri, April 1, 2022

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Cod of war: Ukraine batters British fish and chips Fish and Chip shop owner Pam Sandhu (4R) serves customers as they sit and eat lunch outside of Captain's Fish and Chips shop in Brighton on March 25, 2022. (AFP/Adrian Dennis)

T

hey have weathered the storm of Brexit and Covid, and are fighting the tide of rising inflation. But thousands of Britain's fish and chip shops could be sunk by the war in Ukraine.

At Captain's, in the seaside resort of Brighton, on England's south coast, owner Pam Sandhu is normally not one to complain.

Yet the shelves of her large refrigerators are empty when they should be full of fresh white fish ready to be dipped in batter and deep fried, then served to hungry customers with piping hot chips.

In ordinary times, Russia supplied between 30 and 40 percent of the fish sold in British fish and chip shops, mostly cod and haddock, said Andrew Crook, president of the National Federation of Fish Friers (NFFF).

Ukraine is the world's biggest exporter of vegetable oil, which is used for deep frying what the NFFF calls Britain's "undisputed national dish".

"With this war in Ukraine, there is no fish available or a very small amount," Sandhu told AFP. "Before we were ordering in large quantities.

"Now there is only a minimum order that we can get. The price has doubled from what we paid last year."

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