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Buried fire, shared roots: A Maori and Papuan stone-cooking bond

A Maori hangi and Papuan bubigi cooked side by side highlight deep-rooted culinary parallels, where food becomes both sustenance and a language of togetherness.

Nur Janti (The Jakarta Post)
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Tue, December 23, 2025 Published on Dec. 22, 2025 Published on 2025-12-22T13:19:11+07:00

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Hot stones: Papuan chef Charles Toto arranges chicken over vegetables coated in buah merah, a deep-red Papuan fruit, before covering them with leaves and cooking the dish using the bubigi stone-cooking technique on Dec. 10, 2025, at Javara Culture Garden Store, in Bekasi, West Java. Hot stones: Papuan chef Charles Toto arranges chicken over vegetables coated in buah merah, a deep-red Papuan fruit, before covering them with leaves and cooking the dish using the bubigi stone-cooking technique on Dec. 10, 2025, at Javara Culture Garden Store, in Bekasi, West Java. (JP/Nur Janti)

O

n a humid afternoon in Bekasi, West Java, two chefs from distant corners of Oceania, Kia Kanuta of New Zealand and Charles Toto of Papua, worked side by side, using kindred techniques that turned the ground beneath their feet into a living stove.

One pit followed the careful steps of a Maori hangi, a centuries-old cooking method from New Zealand. The other drew on bubigi, or masak bakar batu, a communal stone-cooking tradition rooted in Papuan life.

At the Javara Culture Garden Store on Dec. 10, the two chefs lined the base of their separate pits with heated stones, layered with food, and covered with foliage before leaving it to cook underground for three hours.

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Though similar in principle, the two techniques eventually produced different flavors.

Kanuta wrapped chicken, potatoes and sweet potatoes in one big sheet of aluminum foil, then layered them with banana leaves before stacking the wrapped food inside the pit. He covered the pit with a wet cloth and sealed it with soil to trap the heat.

Kanuta said that hangi, traditionally prepared for large gatherings, carries a deeply personal meaning.

“Without words, I can show my love through food,” he said. “It’s actually a love language for all of us. Even if you don’t have much, you can still show people that you care by giving them food.”

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