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Decoding Harry Halim’s ‘White Lies’ spring/summer 2024 collection

Adv Account (The Jakarta Post)
Jakarta
Fri, October 20, 2023

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Decoding Harry Halim’s ‘White Lies’ spring/summer 2024 collection A photo collage shows designer Harry Halim (top photo, center) appearing with models wearing oufits from his spring/summer 2024 collection on Oct. 17, 2023, during the finale of his “White Lies” fashion show at Bengkel Space in Kebayoran Baru, South Jakarta. (JP/Karina Dwipayana)

The duality of truth is akin to the beauty of the petaled bloom of a rose deceiving its thorns.

When we speak, our body responds with a language of its own, and often expresses more truth than that masked by our vocabulary. But what happens when our souls rejects truth, even if it is for the greater good? Are we morally wrong, or does this become a form of virtue?

This is the inherent dichotomy of a white lie.

Teetering between political theorist Benjamin Constant’s and philosopher Immanuel Kant’s moralities of truth, questioning whether truths should be told to those who deserve it or rather, to respond to a demand for humanity, is at the heart of a white lie.

This concept is no stranger to internationally acclaimed fashion designer Harry Halim, and it has fueled inspiration for his eponymously named spring/summer 2024 collection, “White Lies”.

Renowned for his talent in manipulating binary opposites through his unconventional designs, Harry does just that in his latest collection.

Whether revealing how truths interplay between femininity and masculinity, strong and soft, or even the lines in between, Harry’s designs takes us on a playful stroll in redefining the conceptual truths of identity.

Unveiled on Oct. 17 at Bengkel Space in South Jakarta, the House of Harry Halim greeted the audience with its White Lies fashion show.

From a grandiose black that slowly faded into a vibrant block of primary and secondary colors, the show transitioning dramatically into a runway flowing with a river of white.

Black fades to white as models present pieces from House of Harry Halim’s “White Lies” spring/summer 2024 collection on Oct. 17, 2023, at Bengkel Space in South Jakarta.
Black fades to white as models present pieces from House of Harry Halim’s “White Lies” spring/summer 2024 collection on Oct. 17, 2023, at Bengkel Space in South Jakarta. (JP/Karina Dwipayana)

“Black is my tribute for the continuous passion of our young generation that fights against stereotyping,” said Harry.

Chromatic notes accompanied by a gorgeous screech of string instruments provided the show’s ambience. A contemporary twist to a medieval nod created anticipation with nothing but a scarlet headline reading “Harry Halim”.

The show then became punctuated by bold models marching down the runway with a uniformly stoic expression, adding to the Gothic undertone that resonated until the grand finale.

An array of voluminous and attractive flowing lines with a flirtatious touch of airy silk brought a not-so-typical frame of the belle epoque period to House of Harry’s spring/summer 2024 show, each outfit carrying its own story of a world far from oppression.

A contemporary pioneer of 18th-19th century romanticism in fashion, Harry’s magic is in translating the anxiety of literary classics into a kind of wearable vernacular.

And white is the color he wields to explore neutrality in space.

This reification of neutrality is empowered by the diverse range and inner beauty of his muses and models, representing liberation from not only gendered fashion but also gender performativity, as gender does not constitute one’s truth as a being.

“The Harry Halim brand is all about a genderless fashion. Genderless here is about unisex,” Harry said onstage, surrounded by his leading muses such as Emil Mario, Wulan Guritno and Wanda Harra.

“Primarily in Indonesia, we need to educate [people on] the concept of genderless,” he added.

A stream of models displaying outfits in white, adorned with intricate details and constructions inspired by gentle architectural styles, swam across the stage.

This contradiction became even more enchanting with silhouettes that transcend gender boundaries, giving voice to freedom and harmonious flow, serving as the pièce de résistance of his collection while symbolizing optimism for a new beginning.

This surprising segment was actually an interlude, and Harry’s bold twist of romantic aestheticism spilled into a palette of black, a signature color of this genderless fashion house as a home for infinite selves.

Honesty within one’s becoming as the self therefore becomes an ambiguous answer to the message of the soul, and the anxiety of “deceit” is conveyed through this elegant contrast.

The audience members sit between traditionalism and modernity as they experience the unconventional flows of his beautiful floor-trailing garments, corseted dresses worn by male models that debunk the caged silhouette of Victorian women, heads wreathed with thorns as they stride in towering platforms and smoky-charcoal eyeliner accentuating the models’ expressive eyes.

Models present creations in bold violet and deep blue-green on Oct. 17, during an interludial segment of a fashion show at Bengkel Square in South Jakarta presenting Harry Halim’s “White Lies” spring/summer 2024 collection, which was dominated by a monochromatic color scheme.
Models present creations in bold violet and deep blue-green on Oct. 17, during an interludial segment of a fashion show at Bengkel Square in South Jakarta presenting Harry Halim’s “White Lies” spring/summer 2024 collection, which was dominated by a monochromatic color scheme. (JP/Karina Dwipayana)

The in-between world takes center stage in Harry’s spring/summer 2024 collection, making the statement that truths and lies have at last arrived at a harmonious union.

Or could it be agony masked?

Harry is currently in the process of preparing to drape the next Hollywood celebrity lineup, which will so lucky to wear his poetic designs.

“Genderless is for everyone. It’s a form of expression. Be who you are,” he said, closing his show to roaring applause.

Harry Halim during his poignant yet sweet closing speech in the Harry Halim’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection themed, 'White Lies’ held on Oct. 17, 2023 in Jakarta.
Harry Halim during his poignant yet sweet closing speech in the Harry Halim’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection themed, 'White Lies’ held on Oct. 17, 2023 in Jakarta. (JP/Karina Dwipayana)

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