'Welcome to Bajo' is the notice on a board hanging in front of the gate of Torosiaje in Popayato district in Gorontalo province. As boats close in, the rhythm of life is apparent in Torosiaje, a unique village on stilts, located some 600 meters from the shore and frequented by tourists.

The Bajo, known as a seafaring people, built the settlement after previously living as boat people scattered in many areas. The homes in Torosiaje, a fishing community of 1,400, are set on wooden posts driven into the sand bed of the sea. This U-shaped village has wooden paths that span 2.3 kilometers.

Umar Passandre, 44, a local community figure, said that Torosiaje was established in 1901. The name came from the words toro, or cape, and si haji, referring to a Bajo Muslim who initiated the construction of the perched buildings.

'With its increasing population, the village is now also shared by other ethnic groups, such as the Minahasa, Gorontalo, Kaili and Mandar people, though they all speak the Bajo language,' says Umar.

Meanwhile, a small number of Bajo fishermen choose to remain aboard their boats called leppa and visit Torosiaje occasionally.

Torosiaje is accessible by boat from a terminal for about Rp 2,000 (20 US cents) per trip. Owing to the town's distinct way of life above seawater, the regency administration made Torosiaje a major tourist destination by building several lodgings on stilts, which go for the rate of Rp 100,000 a night. But visitors can also enjoy homestays.

Boats are local residents' only means of transportation. Although the Bajo boats are not outriggers as others in Gorontalo are, all Bajo people, including women and children, are adept at sailing under difficult conditions, such as passing between wooden poles. Electricity was brought to Torosiaje only in 2012, ending their dependence on power generators and oil lamps.

In 1980, the regional government started relocating the Torosiaje residents, in phases, to land not far from their offshore village. In 2005, Torosiaje Jaya, as the onshore settlement was called, was formally inagurated as a village. Nevertheless, some of the Bajo chose to remain living on stilts, while those living on land have maintained their ties with their Torosiaje relatives.

Despite its remote location ' it takes around eight hours to reach the village from Gorontalo City, Torosiaje is not alien to modernization. Antennas are installed on rooftops to receive TV broadcasts. Smooth telecommunication connections have also helped to boost the business of local cell phone credit vendors.

The principle problem is water. For bathing, cooking, drinking and washing, the Bajo must buy fresh water onshore for Rp 2,000 per bucket. 'Some residents sell fresh water here, but it costs Rp 7,000 per bucket because of the high cost of transportation,' said Akbar, a local resident.

According to him, in 2006 the regency administration built a fresh water network in Torosiaje, but the water has mostly been stagnant since then. Consequently, many people still rely on seawater for bathing and washing, but they use the trick of rinsing their bodies and clothes with fresh water afterward.

Rainwater is seen as a great blessing and is collected in various containers. Despite the travails, Torosiaje remains appealing to tourists particularly at weekends. 'We've visited Torosiaje several times but we still want to return,' said Andri and Cris from Gorontalo city.

They described the spectacular views of sunrise and sunset as a special attraction offered by the village situated near the mouth of the Tomini Bay.

With its clear and placid waters giving gorgeous reflections, Torosiaje offers its own exoticism and the hospitality of its residents.

' Photos By JP/Syamsul Huda M.Suhari

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