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Old and new: Two restaurants in Canggu to feast on
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Caribbean cuisine: Mervilla is introducing Bali to delicacies from the Caribbean. (Instagram/Courtesy of Mervilla). (Instagram/Courtesy of Mervilla)
M
em>Mervilla, a new addition to the Canggu dining scene that offers Caribbean cuisine, and Uni Restaurant, a well-established contemporary seafood restaurant that offers a wide variety of dishes, are two strong dining choices in Bali.
While much of tourism-reliant Bali has struggled during the COVID-19 pandemic, the coastal village of Canggu has continued to see new restaurants, bars and clubs pop up.
From surfers to digital nomads, social media influencers to regular travelers, Canggu caters to individuals from different nationalities and backgrounds.
As Bali gradually reopens for international tourism, here are two restaurants in Canggu worth checking out. One is a refreshing new arrival in the area’s culinary scene, while the other is a longtime favorite.
Mervilla
The brainchild of London-based entrepreneur Ryan Jackson, Mervilla offers something that Bali is not generally familiar with: Caribbean cuisine. Italian restaurants, French cafés and restaurants offering other European cuisines are quite common in Bali, so when Mervilla (named after Jackson’s grandmother) was opened last year, it was a unique addition to the Balinese dining world.
“The main challenge for us is definitely introducing people to Caribbean food. If you’re from the United Kingdom – or maybe Amsterdam or the United States – you’re going to be familiar with this cuisine. It’s surprising how many people [in Bali] have yet to experience the delicacies of the Caribbean,” he said.
The restaurant’s Caribbean Tempura and Island Ceviche are standout appetizers. The tempura consists of coconut-crusted prawns served with a curried aioli that offers a uniquely Caribbean taste, while the ceviche consists of raw red snapper cured with lime, coriander, mango, ginger and red onion in a way that brings all the different flavors into balance. Mervilla also offers cassava and banana chips while patrons wait for their main dishes to be served.
The Jerk Chicken, grilled and accompanied by a jerk sauce, coleslaw, rice and peas, and the Salmon Soul Bowl, with marinated pan-seared salmon, steamed cabbage, white rice, Caribbean salsa and a special Mervilla sauce, are strong main dishes. They offer characteristic Caribbean flavors with generous portions, which according to Jackson, is intentional.
“I remember going to my nan’s when I was younger and I would always come out of there feeling stuffed,” he said. “We have to create a balance in the economics when in business, but at the same time, we want to be able to give that feeling when someone leaves Mervilla that they’re full and have had enough.”
Mervilla’s Sticky Toffee Pudding is a strongly recommended dessert, with a generous amount of caramel sauce and vanilla gelato. Want something a bit more bitter? The Chocolate Rum Cake is also available, with cherry sauce.
Cocktail lovers should try Mervilla’s signature Caribbean Mule, which uses homemade ginger beer, vodka, lime juice and the restaurant’s spice syrup.
Mervilla also hosts free Indonesian lessons every Tuesday morning and has 10 to 12 current weekly attendees. Jackson plans to host free English classes as well in the future.
Uni Restaurant
While Uni Restaurant is not the new kid on the Canggu block, the dining place, founded by Steven Skelly, has been revamped to keep in touch with the ever-growing local food scene.
Uni first opened to the public in October 2019 but closed in March 2020 as a result of the pandemic. The restaurant reopened in December of that year.
Staying true to its name (“uni” means sea urchin in Japanese), the restaurant is filled with Japanese art, with one whole wall displaying Hokusai-like images. The ceiling decorations are a feast to the eyes – with black mirrors and lamps throughout. Uni Restaurant features street art with graffiti and painted-over photos, which contrast pleasantly with its upscale style.
“It’s not just the fare that has embraced change. The interiors have been revamped, with work from a cluster of world-renowned street artists, like Yaz, lining the walls. These will be available to purchase on commission and rotate regularly,” Skelly said.
Skelly, who is no stranger to the demands of the burgeoning Balinese food scene, having spent years as an executive chef for the Mexicola Group, has sensed a change in local dining habits.
To maintain Uni’s strong reputation, Skelly said, the restaurant would add more flavors to its menu with an assortment of casual plates that changed weekly.
“There will of course be a few mainstays, the dishes already beloved by locals, like prawns served in a brioche roll and raw scallops served in fermented raw pumpkin juice. Dishes will be served alongside the same creative cocktails and an impressive array of natural wines,” Skelly added.
“We spent a lot of time sourcing local ingredients and trying to minimize international products. We were doing that before the pandemic started. It’s even more important [now],” he said.
Highlights from Uni’s menu include its prawn rolls and grilled fish of the day with anchovy dressing. The Tokusen wagyu hanger steak is also delicious and is served with spinach on the side.
Craving something sweet? Make sure to check out the chocolate mousse served with black sesame and cocoa crisps.
“Our approach has changed,” said Steven. “It’s simpler, tastier food. Picture a lot less fuss and more focus on making sure it tastes really good. Times have changed, and so have tastes.
Uni has also begun hiring popular local DJs for weekly residencies.
“It’s just a bit of fun,” said Steven of the DJ series. “It’s a great time to get out and socialize and a cool way to entertain our regular base of guests.”
