Surabaya, Indonesia’s second largest city, is suffused in history, culture and contradictions. At once a sprawling urban mess and one of the country’s cleanest cities, its position as a major port means it has become a melting pot for people from all walks of life. One thing unites them all, though: the ubiquitous warkop or coffee houses beloved in Surabaya.

“Surabaya’s the endpoint of a trade route spanning the entirety of East Java, so being there allows us to appreciate the best coffee this region has to offer,” commented Anitha Silvia, cofounder of urban exploration platform Suroboyo Ngalor Ngidul. “We are able to taste the coffee as it is, in its purest and most honest form.”

Old-school brands with unique names such as Oto Terbang (flying automobile) and Jari Besar (big fingers) distribute freshly ground coffee to corner shops, coffee houses and cafes alike across the city. Some more artisanal coffee houses even roast and grind their own beans in-house, much to the delight of its patrons.

As the coffee house is also a stopover for weary working people and travelers alike, Surabayan coffee is also notoriously affordable. “The standard is Rp 3,000 [US$0.21] for a cup of coffee,” Anitha said. “And there are plenty of snacks and side dishes to choose from.”

Here are some of the most unique coffee shops in Surabaya, as curated by the mighty explorers at Suroboyo Ngalor Ngidul.

Warkop Sarkam

Jl. Nyamplungan no. 97, Ampel

Expect a study of contrasts when you walk into Warkop Sarkam. Located right next to a famous slaughterhouse deep in the city’s Arab Quarter and chock-full of burly butchers and traveling salesmen, its masculine aura can seem intimidating for the uninitiated. But look beyond the rough surface and you will find a hidden gem.

Since it first opened its doors in the ‘70s, Sarkam has been a beloved institution for the local community -- and is especially popular with Islamic pilgrims looking to visit the nearby historic Ampel village and its sacred tombs. It is always packed, always buzzing and always open.

Go-to order: Surabaya’s famous axiom is giras -- short for legi dan keras (sweet and strong), which tells you exactly how Surabayans love their coffee. So, get the black coffee; infuse it with sugar if you must.

As it is in a slaughterhouse in the Arab Quarter, put two and two together and look out for a serving of delectable Arabic goat stew with flatbread. Thank us later.

Depot Acu Aling

Dapuan Bend. Gg. III No.1, Krembangan Utara

It is not that easy to find this kopitiam-style establishment. You have to take a walk deep into the city’s Chinese Quarter, turn left down an alley, then find an unmarked house. There are some tell-tale signs, though: most of the time, a waft of smoke and the delicious aroma of red-roasted pork will permeate the air around it. And of course, it is always packed to the rafters.

Run by a family of migrants from Bagansiapiapi, a town in Riau Islands Province, Acu Aling is a loving homage to their culture and heritage. According to folklore, hundreds of years ago several ships containing Chinese migrants departed from Siam in search of refuge from a local conflict. As they were caught in a storm, only one ship managed to survive, and its crew formed the Chinese diaspora at Bagansiapiapi.

So, it is no surprise that in front of Acu Aling’s dining room, you will find a loving shrine to Mazu, the Chinese Goddess of the Sea.

Ready to start: A kitchen worker cutting up red roast pork in Depot Acu Aling, a kopitiam-style establishment in Surabaya's Chinese Quarter. (JP/Raka Ibrahim) (JP/Raka Ibrahim)

Go-to order: Black coffee, no sugar. On the side: A serving of wan tan mie, noodles served with slices of roast red pork, chicken crackling and a light-but-flavorful broth. Come on Sundays to enjoy their other special: Piping hot laksa broth poured over yellow sticky rice.

Warkop Pecindilan

Jl. Pecindilan, Kapasari

You might have to work a bit to get there, as this warkop is nameless and can only be found -- according to Anitha -- by “walking into Pecindilan Market and going all the way to the corner”. But by all accounts, the journey is very much worth it. From its vaunted position, this warkop offers a spectacular view of the hullabaloo in a busy market district -- a study of the human condition if ever there was any. 

That is not the main attraction, though. The warkop is run by a mother-daughter duo of Madurese migrants, who roast their coffee beans in-house, filling the room with the pleasant and overwhelming aroma of freshly roasted coffee. They keep three specially selected local coffees in earthenware jars, mixing them with the fine-tuned instincts of a veteran bartender, creating intoxicatingly good coffee every single time.

It is a performance, and the coffee table is simply their stage.

Meet me at the corner: Located at the corner of Pecindilan Market, this coffee house roasts their beans in-house and boasts special blends and delicious side dishes. (Courtesy of Anitha Silvia) (Courtesy of Anitha Silvia/Courtesy of Anitha Silvia)

Go-to order: Forget giras -- get it as natural as possible. Black, piping hot coffee with no sugar.

Cak Muhari

In front of Hotel Kemajuan, at Jl. KH Mas Mansyur No.96, Ampel

One of the few remaining mobile warkops in Surabaya, Cak Muhari is a veteran coffee maker who parks his small wagon near Hotel Kemajuan in the Arab Quarter almost every morning. As what he is doing sits on the knife-edge between tolerated and illegal, he (jokingly) would look over his shoulder in a gesture of mock alarm every time he pours his coffee.

His mobile coffee house, though, is an undeniable part of the community. Ampel is a mishmash of people of Indian, Yemeni and Arabic descent who have migrated to Surabaya for hundreds of years, but retain their fierce traditions. 

Cak Muhari’s strong coffee and plethora of side dishes have kept the community together. Expect to find rich middlemen, laborers and white-collar workers alike in his establishment.

Go-to order: His coffee costs Rp 2000 per cup, cheaper than most in Surabaya. But it is his snacks that shine. Enjoy a heaping portion of jemblem, fried pounded cassava filled with palm sugar or his famous spicy samosa, filled with vegetables and ground green chilies.

Warkop Elita

Jl. Songoyudan, Pabean

Hole-in-the-wall: Only one meter wide, Warkop Elita is surrounded by other buildings, yet it is a beloved landmark for locals. (Courtesy of Anitha Silvia) (Courtesy of Anitha Silvia/Courtesy of Anitha Silvia)

If you want true heritage, you have come to the right place. Located not far away from the entrance of Pabean market, Warkop Elita is a literal hole-in-the-wall beloved by many. Only one meter wide but seemingly miles deep, it is run by an elderly Chinese-Indonesian couple and has been almost constantly operational since the early 1930s.

Yes, they have coffee, and what wonderful coffee it is. But Warkop Elita is also a hub for the community. On their ancient cupboards and vases, expect to find selections of snacks you thought they had stopped making in the ‘70s, traditional Chinese medicine and cigarettes for all to choose from. It is a place with old-school charm that makes you think you are deep in Shanghai, not Surabaya.

History: A cup of coffee in Warkop Elita, near Surabaya's Pabean Market. It is one of the oldest coffee houses in the city. (Courtesy of Anitha Silvia) (Courtesy of Anitha Silvia/Courtesy of Anitha Silvia)

Go-to order: Of course, their coffee is excellent, but ask its elderly proprietor what she is cooking that day. If you are lucky, she is making pork satay and will be more than happy to share.