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Jakarta Post

Savoring nostalgic bowls of noodles at Bakmi Gondangdia Lama

Tunggul Wirajuda (The Jakarta Post)
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Jakarta
Wed, September 7, 2022

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Savoring nostalgic bowls of noodles at Bakmi Gondangdia Lama Timeless treats: Paired with meatballs, fried wontons and condiments, Bakmi Godila's 'mie ayam' or chicken noodles is one of the favorite dishes at the restaurant. (JP/Tungul Wirajuda) (JP/Tungul Wirajuda)

Jakarta’s venerable Bakmi Gondangdia Lama or Bakmi Godila restaurant soldiers on in the face of various challenges

At a glance, the green, nondescript façade of Bakmi Gondangdia Lama or Bakmi Godila belies its standing as a preeminent specialist in bakmi, along with better-known establishments like Bakmi Gajah Mada, Bakmi Naga and Bakmi Gang Kelinci.

Located in Gondangdia Lama or Old Gondangdia, a subdistrict of Central Jakarta’s leafy Menteng district from which it derived its name, its nondescript green façade would be all too easy to overlook if not for the constant coming and going of customers. Signature dishes include mie ayam pangsit (chicken noodles with boiled or fried wontons) with or without bakso (meatballs), or its variations like mie ayam yamin (chicken with sweet soy sauce) with the same toppings, and more. 

The sense of heritage remains tangible. 

Dig in!: Bakmi Godila’s customers tuck in to their food at lunchtime. (JP/Tungul Wirajuda)
Dig in!: Bakmi Godila’s customers tuck in to their food at lunchtime. (JP/Tungul Wirajuda) (JP/Tungul Wirajuda)

Keeping it in the family

“[Bakmi Godila] was founded by Toe Wah Seng and Lim Kwi Fong in 1968, and the restaurant has been run by their descendants since. Now it is managed by Chandra, their great grandson,” said Bakmi Godila spokesperson Amar Fikri Zain. “So the restaurant has been a family business for four generations.” 

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