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Men's fashion week goes live in Milan, Gucci brings back the boys

The return of Gucci, robust sales of Italian fashion and a farewell to virtual shows -- it's all systems go for men's fashion week in Milan which opened Friday.

Brigitte Hagemann (AFP)
Premium
Milan, Italy
Sat, January 14, 2023

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Men's fashion week goes live in Milan, Gucci brings back the boys Canadian twin brothers and DSQUARED2's fashion designers Dean Caten and Dan Caten acknowledge a model and the audience after their Autumn-Winter 2023-2024 Men's fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on January 13, 2023. (AFP/Miguel Medina)

T

he return of Gucci to the menswear catwalk calendar, robust sales of Italian fashion and a farewell to the pandemic-imposed trend of virtual shows -- it's all systems go for men's fashion week in Milan which opened Friday.

Promising spectacle and optimism after a year in which sales of Italian fashion showed the strongest growth of the last 20 years, presentations for Fall-Winter 2023/2024 men's collections run until Tuesday.

Of the 79 shows, only four are digital, a holdover from the debilitating pandemic period that sent sales plunging and brought a halt to live runway shows. 

Nothing replaces "the live experience, the frenzy, the expectation, the applause, the top models parading on the catwalk and the powerful music," fashion consultant Elisabetta Cavatorta told AFP.

Most anticipated was fashion powerhouse Gucci which put on a menswear-only show for the first time in three years and the luxury label's first since artistic director Alessandro Michele's surprise departure in November.

New direction at Gucci?

At its minimalist show Friday, Gucci said it was celebrating "the aesthetics of improvisation" with a collection inspired by the classic wardrobe of the gentleman, revisited in a subversive spirit. 

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