If you’ve ever wondered what Asia must have felt like a century ago, before the Cold War conflicts that tore it apart, then the old city of Luang Prabang in north Laos is probably one of the few remaining places to offer a glimpse of those bygone times.

Nestling on a sliver of land sandwiched between two rivers and surrounded by lofty green mountains, the old city is easily the country’s — if not Asia’s or the old Indochina’s — most magical and romantic city, and a strong tourist magnet as a consequence.

A tiny mountain kingdom for more than 1,000 years, Luang Prabang is blessed with a legacy of ancient Buddhist temples and French-era colonial shop-houses that, together with its history, earned the city Unesco World Heritage status in 1995.

Hemmed in by the mighty Mekong River on one side and the Nam Khan River on the other, the old city exudes an atmosphere of charming tranquility and under-stated grandeur, not to mention sacred peace, with its graceful lines of saffron-robed monks gliding quietly through the morning mists to the sonorous thump of the temple drums.

Two young monks at the first of four wats on the banks of the Mekong opposite Luang Prabang outside Xiengmene.As a result, Luang Prabang is a perfect place in which to watch the day go by from a riverside terrace or bar, or to try one its haute cuisine French restaurants. As the capital of Lao cuisine, it’s also a great place to sign up for an introductory cooking class at one of the excellent cookery schools attached to some of its best restaurants.

If that’s not enough, for more active visitors there is the surrounding lush tropical countryside, with waterfalls and caves to explore, boat trips on the Mekong or kayaking and cycling tours and even a couple of elephant camps where you can try your hand at being a mahout for a day.

There is something for everyone in Lao’s former royal capital and it is easy to see why those who planned on just visiting for a day or two end up staying here for weeks.

The city’s history is anything but straightforward, similar in many ways to Laos’s own history, squeezed as it is between the powerful neighbors the Thais, the Khmer, the Vietnamese, the Burmese and mighty China to the north.

It was in 1353 that King Fa Ngum established the first Lao Kingdom, called Lan Xang, on the site of Luang Prabang.

In 1512, the king accepted the Pha Bang, a solid gold celebrated Sinhalese image of Buddha, as a gift from the Khmer monarchy, from which the city was renamed Luang (Great/Royal) Prabang (Pha Bang). It was never particularly strong or secure and under threat from the Burmese the king moved the capital to Vientiane two centuries later.

The former Royal Palace of Luang Prabang, now a museum and home to the sacred Buddhist image of Pha Bang.
With the collapse of the Lan Xang kingdom in the late 17th century, an independent kingdom was established in Luang Prabang, in competition with kingdoms based in Vientiane and Champsak further south.

Under pressure from attacks by militias fleeing southern China in the 19th century, the kingdom accepted French protection, after which it became a favorite posting for French colonials seeking to get as far away from Paris as possible (it took longer to steam up the Mekong from Saigon to Luang Prabang than the entire steamship voyage from France to Saigon!).

The city remained the seat of the monarchy throughout the Japanese invasion during World War II and the two Indochina wars, until the victory of the communist Pathet Lao in 1975, when the monarchy was dissolved.

Several sights in the old city are not to be missed. One is the former Royal Palace, which is now a museum, built in 1904 by the French, using traditional Lao and French beaux-art styles. The palace is home to various artifacts hailing from the royal era, but what is most interesting is the simplicity of the residential quarters, including the king’s bedroom.

The highlight of the collection is the Pha Bang 83 centimeter-tall gold Buddha, twice carried off by the invading Thais, first in 1779 and then again in 1827, but returned on both occasions.

The image served to legitimize the former royal dynasty as Buddhist rulers, legend has it that it was made in Sri Lanka in the first century AD (although given its Khmer style the image is more likely to date from the 14th century and be of Khmer origin).

The view across the Mekong toward Luang Prabang, with mountains in the distance.
Rumors abound that the image on display is actually just a copy, and that the real Pha Bang is stored in a vault in Moscow, given by the Pathet Lao to its Vietnamese ally in return for support during the war, and somehow ending up in Moscow. Sadly, photographing the image is strictly forbidden.

Dominating the old city is the sacred hill of Phu Si (or Phousi), a 100 meter-tall hill crowned by a 24 meter-high golden-gilded stupa called That Chomsi. The hill is believed by Buddhists to have been the home to a powerful naga (dragon) and also as Mount Meru, like a Mt. Olympus, the Holy Mountain of Hindu-Buddhist belief.

The peak affords stunning views of the surrounding city and the rivers that define it, together with the jungle-covered mountains encircling the valley. Although many tourists trek up here for the sunset, in many ways a more evocative view is of the golden stupa itself reflecting the rays of the setting sun.

This can best be seen from Wat Chom Phet, one of the four wats that line the opposite bank of the Mekong in Xiengmene, and easily reached by taking a small ferry or longboat across the river from the Luang Prabang pier.

The most ancient and important of the Buddhist temples in the whole of Laos, Wat Xieng Thong monastery at the northern end of the city peninsula is also a “must-see” on any visit to Luang Prabang.

The main sim was built in 1560 and with its five levels of sweeping roofs it is considered the definitive classic example of Lao design. It is interesting to learn that during the 1887 sacking of the city by the marauding Chinese-militia Black Flag army, this was only one of two temples that were spared, on account of its architectural beauty and the fact that the leader of the Black Flag had studied as a monk at the temple in his youth.

Colonial buidings in the main street of Xiang Thong running the length of the old city of Luang Prabang, now a Unesco World Heritage site.
The monastery complex houses several stupas and small chapels, called haw in Lao, containing images of Buddha. Opposite the main sim is a lavish gilded garage for a large ceremonial carriage used to carry the remains of deceased members of the Lao royal family in huge urns.

Not of great antiquity, the carriage was only used once, to transport the remains of King Sisavang Vong to cremation in April 1962. The last king of Lao never got to use the carriage, dying along with his queen and crown prince son in captivity in remote eastern Laos in the late 1970s.

One experience that it well worth trying to get up at the crack of dawn for, is the monks’ alms procession, when the saffron clad monks walk barefoot through the streets with metal alms bowls to collect offerings such as balls of sticky rice, bananas or packets of biscuits.

Although the ceremony still occurs all over Laos, in Luang Prabang it is particularly atmospheric thanks to the setting, despite the fact that these days tourists are starting to outnumber locals. The best way to participate is to try to visit the morning market before the procession to buy some freshly made top grade sticky rice and to avoid buying over-priced rice from pushy vendors along the route.

Once in position, don’t forget to remove your shoes and kneel with your feet pointing behind you, and as the line of monks approaches try to avoid making eye contact. If all goes well, your kharma should be raised a couple of notches for your next life.

— Photos by Peter Milne